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2018 Côtes du Jura Savagnin “Perle du Village”

François Rousset-Martin
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This mesmerizing Savagnin’s bouquet is so laden with pear, you might think one shimmied into the bottle. François harvests ripe, late fall fruit for Perle du Village, imparting the wine with a lavish body while retaining remarkable freshness. If you’re familiar with Italy’s aromatic white, Traminer, you’ll find a familiar friend here—Savagnin is the same grape, and the parent to Gewurztraminer. Such heady aromatics pair beautifully with fresh, saline cheeses like Valbreso feta, or grilled halloumi. It will also do well, of course, with classic Jura fare: smoked sausage or vin jaune braised chicken and wild mushrooms.

Allyson Noman

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2018
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Savagnin (ouillé)
Appellation: Côtes du Jura
Country: France
Region: Jura
Producer: François Rousset-Martin
Winemaker: Francois Rousset-Martin
Vineyard: 25-60 years old
Soil: Gray marl
Aging: Aged for 4 years in 225L barrels
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 13.5%

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About The Region

Jura

map of Jura

The Jura wine world is a fascinating, mysterious, and at times confusing one. The region’s recent surge in popularity on American wine lists lies in contrast with how strange its wines come across to the uninitiated, with many of its indigenous production methods and quirky winemakers requiring more than an introduction for one to fully savor their virtues. We firmly believe, however, that the pleasure at stake is well worth a slight detour to study the wild world of Jura.

Jura tradition calls for aging whites sous voile, or under a fine “veil” of yeast that grows over wine in barrel that has not been topped-off (non ouillé) to compensate for evaporation. The voile effectively slows the process of oxidation, while chemical reactions between these microorganisms and the wine below give rise to a highly distinctive and complex set of aromas. Often hinting at walnuts, beeswax, oriental spices, cheese rind, and brine, wines aged sous voile can come as a shock to the unhabituated palate. Their textural and aromatic singularity naturally sets them in a category of their own at table, perhaps the best setting in which to gain an appreciation for such wines.

Many Jura producers also produce more conventional whites in an ouillé, or topped-off style, as is practiced in Burgundy–or for that matter, in essentially all the white wines we are accustomed to. This method preserves fresh fruit flavors without the rather rustic, often funky oxidative notes typical of wines aged sous voile.

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