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2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc “La Crau”

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
Discount Eligible $85.00
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The gnarled old gobelet-trained Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, and Roussanne of La Crau successfully coped with the hot, dry conditions that came to define the 2017 vintage, yielding a concentrated white with all of its typical characteristics intensified as if under a magnifying glass. The trademark mineral nerve conferred by the stones appears in spades, providing drive and precision. Fruit is ample, yet restrained, accented by whiffs of anise and a deft kiss of oak. In other words, we have yet another classic from the Bruniers. Stock up now, because the one downside of this fine vintage is its woeful yields.

Anthony Lynch


Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2017
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: 40% Clairette, 30% Grenache Blanc, 15% Bourboulenc, 15% Roussanne
Appellation: Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Country: France
Region: Southern Rhône
Producer: Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe
Winemaker: Frédéric & Daniel Brunier
Vineyard: 40 years average, 5 ha
Soil: Alluvial deposits, Limestone, Silica, and Molasse (red clay) with galets roulés
Aging: Wine rests in cement tank for 10 months, and then ages for another 12 months in foudres
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 13.5%

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Sampling wine out of the barrel.

When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:

1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.

Inspiring Thirst, page 174