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2017 Cruvin
Punta CrenaIf you want to get to know the Crovino grape, a red variety indigenous to the Ligurian coast that is today extinct save for a lonely hectare in cultivation by the Ruffino family at Punta Crena, then here is your chance. The hot, dry 2017 vintage concentrated the grapes such that Crovino’s unique characteristics are enhanced tenfold. Black pepper, sweet exotic spice, and smoky dark fruit are delivered with an intensity that makes its smooth, well-rounded structure come almost as a surprise. This, I daresay, is undoubtedly the best Crovino you’ve never tasted.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2017 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Crovino |
Appellation: | Colline Savonesi |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Liguria |
Producer: | Punta Crena |
Winemaker: | Tommaso Ruffino & Family |
Vineyard: | 11 years, 32-41 years, 62-71 years, .8 ha |
Soil: | Sandy Gravel |
Farming: | Traditional |
Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Punta Crena
About The Region
Liguria
A long, crescent-shaped sliver of mountainous coastline ranging from the French border in the west to that of Tuscany in the east, Liguria is a region of unrivaled Mediterranean charm. This applies not only to its colorful seaside villages and carefree, welcoming people, but also to the wines it produces—crisp whites and light reds designed to be quaffed with locally caught seafood.
Viticulture has thrived along these coastal hillsides since Etruscan times. Ancient stone terraces line the steep slopes all along the Riviera, many abandoned while others still host olive trees, lemon trees, and of course, the vine. What Liguria lacks in acreage, it makes up for in diversity and originality: home to numerous indigenous grape varieties, it produces wines of infectious local character.
The hallmarks of Ligurian wines are fragrant aromatics and lively freshness. Whites from grapes like Vermentino and Pigato capture the pervasive flavors of wild herbs and citrus with a sea-breeze salinity, while the rare reds from Rossese, among others, have a brightness of flavor that allows them to complement dishes from the sea or land—served with a slight chill, of course.
While Kermit’s history in the region is relatively recent, Liguria has rapidly become one of his favorite places to visit. It’s hard to blame him—enjoying a crisp, perfumed white with a platter of fried sea critters on the Mediterranean is definitely not the worst part of the job.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch