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2021 Colline Savonesi Cruvin

Punta Crena
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Liguria is best known for its crisp, aromatic whites—perfumed quaffers that get along nicely with the seafood-based cuisine. The region’s rare red wines often feature Sangiovese imported from nearby Tuscany or Granaccia (Grenache) from southern France, but other Ligurian reds spotlight indigenous grapes planted only in very localized areas.
     Nothing could be truer of Crovino, a dark-skinned red grown, as far as we know, exclusively by the Ruffino family of Punta Crena, in their vineyards overlooking the seaside town of Varigotti. Crovino gives low yields, and its berries tend to fall to the ground upon achieving full ripeness, inciting other growers to tear out their vines in favor of less fussy varieties.
     Fortunately, we can still enjoy a taste of Varigotti history through this delightfully fresh, spicy, medium-bodied red scented of tart blackberries, wild mint, and other aromatic herbs you would find on a hike through Liguria’s coastal mountains. It shines alongside regional pasta dishes—pansotti with salsa alle noci (walnut sauce) is a classic—or cuisine from Liguria’s mountainous interior, such as roast rabbit with taggiasca olives and wild herbs.

Anthony Lynch

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Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2021
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Crovino
Appellation: Colline Savonesi
Country: Italy
Region: Liguria
Producer: Punta Crena
Winemaker: Tommaso Ruffino & Family
Vineyard: 11 years, 32-41 years, 62-71 years, .8 ha
Soil: Sandy Gravel
Farming: Traditional
Alcohol: 13%

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About The Region

Liguria

map of Liguria

A long, crescent-shaped sliver of mountainous coastline ranging from the French border in the west to that of Tuscany in the east, Liguria is a region of unrivaled Mediterranean charm. This applies not only to its colorful seaside villages and carefree, welcoming people, but also to the wines it produces—crisp whites and light reds designed to be quaffed with locally caught seafood.

Viticulture has thrived along these coastal hillsides since Etruscan times. Ancient stone terraces line the steep slopes all along the Riviera, many abandoned while others still host olive trees, lemon trees, and of course, the vine. What Liguria lacks in acreage, it makes up for in diversity and originality: home to numerous indigenous grape varieties, it produces wines of infectious local character.

The hallmarks of Ligurian wines are fragrant aromatics and lively freshness. Whites from grapes like Vermentino and Pigato capture the pervasive flavors of wild herbs and citrus with a sea-breeze salinity, while the rare reds from Rossese, among others, have a brightness of flavor that allows them to complement dishes from the sea or land—served with a slight chill, of course.

While Kermit’s history in the region is relatively recent, Liguria has rapidly become one of his favorite places to visit. It’s hard to blame him—enjoying a crisp, perfumed white with a platter of fried sea critters on the Mediterranean is definitely not the worst part of the job.

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Terroirs

Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.

Inspiring Thirst, page 312

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