While Dolcetto is not the most prestigious grape variety grown in Piedmont, these unpretentious, straightforwardly delicious wines can be found in every roadside trattoria in the area, where patrons gulp them by the carafe at all hours of the day. The Sod Cristina from II Palazzotto, a small, family-run estate managed by fourth-generation grower Paolo Olivero, is a soft, fruity, and elegant Dolcetto, conjuring violets and purple berries. The word "sorl" in the local dialect refers to a hilltop area with good sun exposure that produces great wine-a word that is therefore added to historical names of vineyards to identify a superior terroir. Paolo's Dolcetto is an honest ambassador of this workhouse grape that the Piemontese drink daily with their robust cuisine. Serve it slightly chilled and frequently. –Anthony Lynch
|Appellation:||Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba|
|Vineyard:||Planted in 1985, 1.5 ha|
|Aging:||Wine ages in stainless steel tank until August or September of year following vintage, ages in bottle for 2 to 3 months|
The Olivero family has produced wine on their property for four generations, but it wasn’t until after Paolo finished oenology school and worked for another domaine in Diano d’Alba that he returned home to lead the family domaine and bottle their wines. Paolo’s Sorì Cristina vineyard produces a soft Dolcetto, with good structure and an elegant balance. The Sorì Santa Lucia vineyard produces a more structured Dolcetto than the Cristina and can be cellared for three to five years. Paolo’s Dolcetto is delicious, straightforward, and an honest ambassador of this workhouse grape that the Piemontese drink daily with their robust cuisine.
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236