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March 2026 Newsletter
Receive our Monthly Newsletter and Special Promotions. Stay up to date on new arrivals, sales, and events at our Berkeley shop.
March 2026 Newsletter
Table of Contents
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A Primer on Vouvray
From Adventures on the Wine Route by Kermit Lynch - Vouvray Three Ways by Dustin Soiseth
- Domaine de Fontsainte by Anthony Lynch
- New Italian Classics by Jane Augustine
- Northern Rhône by Chris Santini
- Tuscan Sangiovese at its Peak by Anthony Lynch
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2024 Cru Beaujolais
One Bottle After Another by Tom Wolf - Island Wines by Tom Wolf
- Unheated Rivalry by Jane Augustine
Vouvray’s wine is a product of what we call the Chenin Blanc grape, but I prefer the local name, Pineau de la Loire, and [René] Loyau is of th...
Kermit and René Loyau
Vouvray’s wine is a product of what we call the Chenin Blanc grape, but I prefer the local name, Pineau de la Loire, and [René] Loyau is of the opinion that the original plantings of Pineau were Pinot, the Chardonnay, imported to Vouvray from Burgundy. Over sixteen centuries or more, the plant evolved ever so slowly as it adapted to Vouvray’s soil and climate. Even today, Loyau says, certain Vouvrays show a striking aromatic kinship to the Chardonnays of the Côte d’Or. I have no opinion beyond finding Loyau’s theory intriguing; however, I can say that the aroma of a good Vouvray is more reminiscent of Meursault (minus the new oak) than it is of the California rendition of Chenin Blanc.
Although produced from this single grape variety, Vouvray yields more than a single type of wine. The fact that Vouvray appears in several different guises must render it difficult for the public to comprehend. But once sorted out, the multiple personalities of Vouvray become an attraction, a complete little cosmos of wines ranging from gay to profound.
Vouvray can be a sparkling wine with a froth like Champagne’s. Such bottles are labeled Vouvray Mousseux.
Or it can offer a more delicate bead, and these are labeled Vouvray Pétillant, whose light sparkle might arise intentionally or not, because in the traditional cold chalk cellars, Vouvray exhibits a natural desire to pétiller, or sparkle. A generous dose of sulfur dioxide will suppress this desire, but that is a bit like whipping a dog for wagging its tail. Instead, one might regard Vouvray’s tendency to pétiller, to revisit the ebullient days of its infancy, as an additional charm. What harm is there in a subtle effervescence, a liveliness on the palate, which also serves to propel and rejuvenate the aroma? For some reason, many tasters seem to be threatened by such a spirited display of energy, so most Vouvray producers resort to all sorts of technical shenanigans to keep their wine still. Vouvray Pétillant has practically disappeared from the marketplace. When I imported a few cases, customers returned it because they thought it was still fermenting. In the Vouvray cellars, however, the pétillant continues to be produced. It is poured for friends and downed with great pleasure.
As for still Vouvrays, they can be dry (sec), off-dry (demi-sec), or unctuous and botrytized like Sauternes (moelleux). They can be fresh, seductive wines that drink well right out of the barrel, or perfectly developed old masterpieces after several decades.
This is one of those wines that if you popped the cork and poured yourself a glass while cooking, there’s a pretty good chance it would be mostly go...
Buy this collection 3 bottles
Wines in this Collection
Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
France | Loire
The standard that Catherine Breton and her son Paul hold their Vouvray Brut to is not other Loire sparkling wines, but Champagne.
2024 Vouvray
France | Loire
This is Vouvray sec of the cold mountain stream persuasion—bracing, with a clean finish.
2024 Vouvray “Les Fondraux”
France | Loire
The sweetness—more like a honeyed roundness—is at the front of each sip, then whisked away by the same brisk finish as their Vouvray sec.
Kermit started working with Yves Laboucarié of Domaine de Fontsainte in 1982. Upon discovering Yves’ Gris de Gris rosé, Kermit wrote, “I ha...
Bruno and Yves Laboucarié of Domaine de Fontsainte. Kermit started working with Yves in 1982. Upon discovering Yves’ Gris de Gris rosé, Kermit wrote, “I have yet to encounter a better rosé in the south of France, excepting Domaine Tempier’s. According to locals, his red is the finest Corbières available. By far!”
Buy this collection 2 bottles
Wines in this Collection
2025 Languedoc Rosé “Gris de Gris”
France | Languedoc-Roussillon
A cold glass hits the spot every single time, bursting over the taste buds with bright citrus, wild strawberry, and a juicy finish that makes one’s mouth water in anticipation of the next sip.
2022 Corbières Rouge “Réserve La Demoiselle”
France | Languedoc-Roussillon
The vines have been soaking up Mediterranean sunshine for the past century and a quarter, and they give it all back in each toothsome, rosemary-scented sip.
The most recognizable word on this wine’s label is Nebbiolo, but don’t let that give you any ideas—this red is not like others you’ve tasted. ...
The Garrone’s Prünent vines
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Wines in this Collection
2023 Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore “Prünent”
Italy | Piedmont
This one is vibrant, high-toned, and lengthy, with fragrant, velvety fruit that will make your eyes widen with pleasure.
2024 Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure”
Italy | Piedmont
It’s racy, dialed-up, and chalky, so if these qualities appeal to you, you may fall hard for it.
What do you do when you inherit a tiny plot of vines previously used for family and friends’ consumption? I suppose you either go all out and get mo...
The Hill of Hermitage
Buy this collection 3 bottles
Wines in this Collection
2024 Saint-Joseph Blanc “Clef de Sol”
France | Northern Rhône
This perfect mix of acidity and unctuous texture gives persistent floral notes with a long almond finish.
2023 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge “Passe Temps”
France | Northern Rhône
Frédéric soon had a local following in and around his village for his old-school, dark, juicy Crozes with its hints of tapenade and smoke.
2023 Hermitage Rouge “La Pierrelle”
France | Northern Rhône
Expansive savory aromas, meaty, broad, velvety tannins, grandness, ripeness and freshness, all at once. Only in Hermitage!
Their hospitality is about as genuine and kindhearted as it comes, centered around sharing thirst-quenching Chianti Classico and rustic, regional home...
Marino Colleoni
Buy this collection 2 bottles
Wines in this Collection
2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “Santa Maria”
Italy | Tuscany
From a cool site at high elevation, his Santa Maria Riserva exudes the gentle touch proper to this Montalcino artisan, with a seductive aroma of rose petals.
2021 Chianti Classico Riserva
Italy | Tuscany
Fragrant notes of Tuscan herbs, forest floor, and brambles define this Sangiovese, possibly the perfect comfort wine for a homemade plate of pasta.
In his seminal essay “Revolution in the Beaujolais" Kermit wrote about Morgon’s trailblazing producers. While their methods were seen as avant-gar...
Nicole and Romain Chanrion
Buy this collection 3 bottles
Wines in this Collection
2024 Côte-de-Brouilly
France | Beaujolais
Stony, faintly spicy, and elegant, it’s the kind of bottle you want to pop open again as soon as the first is drained.
2024 Fleurie “Les Moriers”
France | Beaujolais
February Club Gourmand ~ Showcasing notes of brambly fruit, violet, stone, and smoke, this classic bottling of Les Moriers offers so much to love.
2024 Chénas “Vibrations”
France | Beaujolais
Vibrations, which is a blend of Chénas terroirs, is a lively and fresh Beaujolais, with bright red fruit and silky tannins.
I wish for more growers to experiment with cuvées that blur the line between red and rosé. Tavel is the epicenter for this style, but producers in o...
Carmelo Vecchio
Buy this collection 3 bottles
Wines in this Collection
2024 Etna Rosato “Sciare Vive”
Italy | Sicily
Vibrant and full of the volcanic minerality, this dark-hued rosato could only come from one place.
2024 Vermentino Isola dei Nuraghi “Fria”
Italy | Sardinia
Mixing stone fruit with sea spray, this crisp Vermentino is the bottle you should reach for the next time you make linguine with clams or fish tacos.
2022 Corse Figari Rouge “Alta Rocca”
France | Corsica
In Alta Rocca, you’ll find a noble red full of herbs, ripe berries, and spice. Don’t miss one of Corsica’s grandest wines!
It’s a bit funny to write about two equally fantastic Bandols made by men with quite opposite personalities. I don’t imagine their interpretation ...
Alain Pascal of Gros ‘Noré
It’s a bit funny to write about two equally fantastic Bandols made by men with quite opposite personalities. I don’t imagine their interpretation of the métier is that different—make wines that express their terroir—but a vigneron always leaves their mark, and that fascinates me. Reynald Delille of Terrebrune is introspective, lithe, and gentle. He practices aikido when he’s not making wine. The Bandol he crafts is surely in his image: restrained, layered, and precise. Walking through the vineyards with him is like a much-needed silent retreat: observation instead of chatter, mindfulness over ego. By contrast, Alain Pascal, a hulking and charismatic countryman, shouts and whistles as loud as he can to round up his pack of sinewy hunting dogs to join in the vines. Boisterous and wily, they zip around his ankles before jetting from one row to the next. Alain, who used to practice a different sort of martial art—boxing—comes to life in this moment, inviting you into every emotion that overcomes him. His wines? Full of soul, brooding fruit, and generosity. Despite the differences between these vignerons and their wines, Bandol’s character is fierce and imposing, uniting their wines, and the men perhaps, in brotherhood. It’s worth tasting them side by side to experience the yin and the yang of this spectacular appellation.
Buy this collection 2 bottles
Wines in this Collection
2022 Bandol Rouge
France | Provence
November Club Chevalier ~ Alain Pascal’s red is polished and pedigreed, but remains au naturel somehow: uninhibited, unfussy, and raw.
2021 Bandol Rouge
France | Provence
Terrebrune’s 2021 is harmonious, ripe with garrigue and wild berries, and bold in all the best ways. It’s firm and full of character but not at all showy.
Chez Toi Bistro Samper
Let’s take a moment to picture a cramped, albeit intimate restaurant in Paris, dimly lit and discreetly nestled on a narrow street. The daily menu—a chalkboard perched on a chair—has its prix-fixe options hastily scribbled in white script. Under the headers Entrée, Plat, and Dessert, you might be able to make out a few classics…
Shop Now >
A Primer on Vouvray
From Adventures on the Wine Route
by Kermit Lynch
Although produced from this single grape variety, Vouvray yields more than a single type of wine. The fact that Vouvray appears in several different guises must render it difficult for the public to comprehend. But once sorted out, the multiple personalities of Vouvray become an attraction, a complete little cosmos of wines ranging from gay to profound.
Vouvray can be a sparkling wine with a froth like Champagne’s…
Vouvray Three Ways
by Dustin Soiseth
This is one of those wines that if you popped the cork and poured yourself a glass while cooking, there’s a pretty good chance it would be mostly gone by the time dinner was ready. It goes down so effortlessly…
Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante” • Catherine & Pierre Breton 2024 Vouvray • Champalou 2024 Vouvray “Les Fondraux” • Champalou
Domaine de Fontsainte
by Anthony Lynch
Kermit started working with Yves Laboucarié of Domaine de Fontsainte in 1982. Upon discovering Yves’ Gris de Gris rosé, Kermit wrote, “I have yet to encounter a better rosé in the south of France, excepting Domaine Tempier’s. According to locals, his red is the finest Corbières available…
2025 Languedoc Rosé “Gris de Gris” • Domaine de Fontsainte 2022 Corbières Rouge “Réserve La Demoiselle” • Domaine de Fontsainte
New Italian Classics
by Jane Augustine
The most recognizable word on this wine’s label is Nebbiolo, but don’t let that give you any ideas—this red is not like others you’ve tasted. We’re technically still in Piedmont at Cantine Garrone, but it’s “Alto” Piemonte, over two hours away from Barolo country, near the Swiss border. The local term for Nebbiolo is Prünent, and after one sip, you’ll see why the distinction makes sense…
2023 Valli Ossolane Nebbiolo Superiore “Prünent” • Cantine Garrone 2024 Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure” • Cantina Favaro
Northern Rhône
by Chris Santini
What do you do when you inherit a tiny plot of vines previously used for family and friends’ consumption? I suppose you either go all out and get more land, try to build up a domaine, and go full-time on it, or you keep your day job, be content with what you got, and have some fun with it…
2024 Saint-Joseph Blanc “Clef de Sol” • Domaine Jolivet 2023 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge “Passe Temps” • Frédéric Pierro 2023 Hermitage Rouge “La Pierrelle” • Barruol / Lynch
Tuscan Sangiovese at its Peak
by Anthony Lynch
Their hospitality is about as genuine and kindhearted as it comes, centered around sharing thirst-quenching Chianti Classico and rustic, regional home cooking. Their wines are not intense or meditative—just like their makers, they are generous, jovial, and easygoing…
2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “Santa Maria” • Colleoni 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva • Podere Campriano
2024 Cru Beaujolais
One Bottle After Another
by Tom Wolf
In his seminal essay “Revolution in the Beaujolais" Kermit wrote about Morgon’s trailblazing producers. While their methods were seen as avant-garde or fringe back then, their wines have become iconic and embraced by the mainstream over the years. The revolutionaries won…
2024 Côte-de-Brouilly • Nicole Chanrion 2024 Fleurie “Les Moriers” • Domaine Chignard 2024 Chénas “Vibrations” • Domaine Thillardon
Island Wines
by Tom Wolf
I wish for more growers to experiment with cuvées that blur the line between red and rosé. Tavel is the epicenter for this style, but producers in other regions have discovered how beguiling that line can be. This rendition comes from the northern face of Mount Etna…
2024 Etna Rosato “Sciare Vive” • Vigneti Vecchio 2024 Vermentino Isola dei Nuraghi “Fria” • Deperu Holler 2022 Corse Figari Rouge “Alta Rocca” • Clos Canarelli
Unheated Rivalry
by Jane Augustine
It’s a bit funny to write about two equally fantastic Bandols made by men with quite opposite personalities. I don’t imagine their interpretation of the métier is that different—make wines that express their terroir—but a vigneron always leaves their mark, and that fascinates me. Reynald Delille of Terrebrune is introspective, lithe, and gentle. He practices aikido when he’s not making wine. The Bandol he crafts is surely in his image: restrained, layered, and precise. Walking through the vineyards with him is like a much-needed silent retreat: observation instead of chatter, mindfulness over ego. By contrast, Alain Pascal, a hulking and charismatic countryman, shouts and whistles as loud as he can to round up his pack of sinewy hunting dogs…
2022 Bandol Rouge • Domaine du Gros ‘Noré 2021 Bandol Rouge • Domaine de Terrebrune
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!
Inspiring Thirst, page 117