Loire Reds
by Dustin Soiseth
Last month we explored Loire Valley whites, and now it’s time for the reds, with a trio of Cabernet Francs from benchmark domaines. Recent vintages characterized by milder winters and longer growing seasons, though not without their own unique challenges, have given Cabernet Franc the time it needs to ripen fully. If you enjoy nervy reds with a balance of fruit and earthiness like Pinot Noir or Gamay, then you’ll assuredly be a fan of Cabernet Franc.
2021 Chinon
France | Loire
Sourced from a mix of gravel and limestone terroirs, Le Domaine displays the attributes of both: freshness from the gravel, minerality and structure from the limestone. With generous red fruit and a hit of wildness that I always associate with Baudry, it’s a classic—and very tasty—Chinon from one of the appellation’s best.
2020 Bourgueil “Nuits d’Ivresse”
France | Loire
If I had to recommend a single Loire Cabernet Franc to share with someone unfamiliar with the region’s reds, it would be this vintage of this wine. The fruit is ripe, fleshy, and vibrant. The finish is sumptuous, pleasantly chalky, and lingering. The Nuits d’Ivresse is a special cuvée, harvested, fermented, and bottled without any sulfur whatsoever. Store it carefully and enjoy it now. It is a treat.
2020 Saumur-Champigny “Les Mémoires”
France | Loire
The 2020 vintage was excellent for Cabernet Franc. The long, warm growing season was mostly drama-free, the resulting fruit ripe and abundant. This bottling is sourced from a small parcel of 110+-year-old vines, a good portion of which are ungrafted, and as you’d expect from well-tended old vines in a strong vintage, the wine is dense with promise. The fruit is very fine, almost silky, with intense minerality on the finish. Upon opening, it was quite closed but showed its potential the following day. Patience is needed—and will be rewarded.