We’ve long considered the tenacious Daniel Alibrand to be one of the most talented vignerons we work with. He’s a no-frills, no-nonsense guy with a winemaking style to match. In Sauternes, it’s unusual to craft razor-sharp, bone-dry whites from Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon that are electrifying, stimulating, and complex. But Daniel delivers every vintage. The moniker for this wine reveals his pursuit: to make a focused and precise blanc that tastes “defined.” The resulting cuvée is bright, salty, and brimming with peachy, citrusy fruit. It’s just the antidote to moody days and gray February skies.

A pivert, in French, is a woodpecker. The name of this wine alludes to the nagging feeling in one’s temples after overindulging, akin to the incessant drilling of a woodpecker. I can’t claim to know the cure for a hangover, but I do practice prevention! Staying hydrated is key, and choosing wines that are well made and balanced seems to work wonders. Hubau’s Les Piverts has zero added sulfur and is like a big bowl of brambly fruit with a touch of graphite and a splash of violet. An affable wine, full of charm, it is easy to pair and has a revolutionary’s spirit: it’s uncommon to find “natural” wine in Bordeaux as transparent as this one, but someone had to pave the way.

Organically grown, pedigreed Bordeaux? Say no more. Olivier Techer, who learned to make wine from his pioneering mother, regales us time after time, never missing, with his slightly rustic, always alluring Pomerol from his family’s storied outpost on the right bank. A touch of Cabernet Franc lends a peppery accent to this Merlot-based blend that’s both curvy and firm, with tangy red fruit and woodsmoke on the nose. After a few years in bottle, it now reveals a more savory, velvety quality. Bordeaux as luxurious as this one makes an apt pairing for a banquet of dishes ranging from grilled flank steak to lamb chops to charred and herby chicken hot off the grill.