A Trio of Grand Rieslings
by Anthony Lynch
In Alsace, Riesling undoubtedly holds the title for noblest of the region’s “noble varieties.” But even among dry Rieslings—the predominant style—the grape takes on myriad forms, primarily due to Alsace’s rich mélange of soils including granite, Muschelkalk limestone, sandstone, marl, and volcanic sediment, just to name a few. Vintage character and each vigneron’s unique touch further distinguish one Riesling from the next. This impressive trio demonstrates not just the diversity, but the utter class Riesling expresses in Alsatian soils.
Albert Boxler
France | Alsace
Boxler, one of Alsace’s grand heavyweights, is one of those domaines whose wines are usually rather difficult to come by, as more often than not they’re snatched up at release and taken out of cellars to mark only the most important occasions. Most of Boxler’s wines are rare, powerful, and thought-provoking monuments. This Riesling has all the grandeur of the more famous Boxler cuvées, being sourced from declassified grand cru vines, but its crisp, fresh, easier style is for when you just need a good solid drink and not a major celebration.
Meyer-Fonné
France | Alsace | Alsace Grand Cru
Nearby in Katzenthal, Félix Meyer’s crown jewel is his acreage on the imposing slope of the grand cru Wineck-Schlossberg. Born from the warmer 2020 harvest, this Riesling offers ripe yellow fruits along with notes of bergamot, ginger, and gunflint. Despite the rich mouthfeel, there is a purity to the saline-tinged finish—a hallmark of granitic soils—that keeps things perky and fresh. Appreciate how it cuts through the creaminess of a tonkotsu ramen, or hold it for five to eight more years before indulging.
Kuentz-Bas
France | Alsace | Alsace Grand Cru
Over five years old, this 2018 shows off the elegance and depth Riesling achieves in limestone-marl terroirs. Suggestions of white lilies, acacia, and white peach provide a gentle complexity, while the generous, yet laid-back texture contrasts with the zestier Rieslings above. The Geisberg speaks softly but has a lot to say; a delicately prepared white fish is the perfect backdrop for it to express its subtleties.
Boxler, one of Alsace’s grand heavyweights, is one of those domaines whose wines are usually rather difficult to come by, as more often than not they’re snatched up at release and taken out of cellars to mark only the most important occasions. Most of Boxler’s wines are rare, powerful, and thought-provoking monuments. This Riesling has all the grandeur of the more famous Boxler cuvées, being sourced from declassified grand cru vines, but its crisp, fresh, easier style is for when you just need a good solid drink and not a major celebration.
Nearby in Katzenthal, Félix Meyer’s crown jewel is his acreage on the imposing slope of the grand cru Wineck-Schlossberg. Born from the warmer 2020 harvest, this Riesling offers ripe yellow fruits along with notes of bergamot, ginger, and gunflint. Despite the rich mouthfeel, there is a purity to the saline-tinged finish—a hallmark of granitic soils—that keeps things perky and fresh. Appreciate how it cuts through the creaminess of a tonkotsu ramen, or hold it for five to eight more years before indulging.
Over five years old, this 2018 shows off the elegance and depth Riesling achieves in limestone-marl terroirs. Suggestions of white lilies, acacia, and white peach provide a gentle complexity, while the generous, yet laid-back texture contrasts with the zestier Rieslings above. The Geisberg speaks softly but has a lot to say; a delicately prepared white fish is the perfect backdrop for it to express its subtleties.
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