A Trio of Grand Rieslings
by Anthony Lynch
In Alsace, Riesling undoubtedly holds the title for noblest of the region’s “noble varieties.” But even among dry Rieslings—the predominant style—the grape takes on myriad forms, primarily due to Alsace’s rich mélange of soils including granite, Muschelkalk limestone, sandstone, marl, and volcanic sediment, just to name a few. Vintage character and each vigneron’s unique touch further distinguish one Riesling from the next. This impressive trio demonstrates not just the diversity, but the utter class Riesling expresses in Alsatian soils.
Albert Boxler
France | Alsace
The brisk 2021 vintage gave taut, linear wines with mouthwatering acidity, and that is certainly the case in this young-vine cuvée from Alsatian maestro Jean Boxler. He bottles the Réserve from declassified grand cru fruit from Sommerberg and Brand, two of Alsace’s legendary vineyard sites, so there is serious terroir pedigree to go with the stimulating citrus and spring flowers. Tart and crystalline, it has the zip to quench one’s thirst with verve and grace.
Meyer-Fonné
France | Alsace | Alsace Grand Cru
Nearby in Katzenthal, Félix Meyer’s crown jewel is his acreage on the imposing slope of the grand cru Wineck-Schlossberg. Born from the warmer 2020 harvest, this Riesling offers ripe yellow fruits along with notes of bergamot, ginger, and gunflint. Despite the rich mouthfeel, there is a purity to the saline-tinged finish—a hallmark of granitic soils—that keeps things perky and fresh. Appreciate how it cuts through the creaminess of a tonkotsu ramen, or hold it for five to eight more years before indulging.
Kuentz-Bas
France | Alsace | Alsace Grand Cru
Over five years old, this 2018 shows off the elegance and depth Riesling achieves in limestone-marl terroirs. Suggestions of white lilies, acacia, and white peach provide a gentle complexity, while the generous, yet laid-back texture contrasts with the zestier Rieslings above. The Geisberg speaks softly but has a lot to say; a delicately prepared white fish is the perfect backdrop for it to express its subtleties.
The brisk 2021 vintage gave taut, linear wines with mouthwatering acidity, and that is certainly the case in this young-vine cuvée from Alsatian maestro Jean Boxler. He bottles the Réserve from declassified grand cru fruit from Sommerberg and Brand, two of Alsace’s legendary vineyard sites, so there is serious terroir pedigree to go with the stimulating citrus and spring flowers. Tart and crystalline, it has the zip to quench one’s thirst with verve and grace.
Nearby in Katzenthal, Félix Meyer’s crown jewel is his acreage on the imposing slope of the grand cru Wineck-Schlossberg. Born from the warmer 2020 harvest, this Riesling offers ripe yellow fruits along with notes of bergamot, ginger, and gunflint. Despite the rich mouthfeel, there is a purity to the saline-tinged finish—a hallmark of granitic soils—that keeps things perky and fresh. Appreciate how it cuts through the creaminess of a tonkotsu ramen, or hold it for five to eight more years before indulging.
Over five years old, this 2018 shows off the elegance and depth Riesling achieves in limestone-marl terroirs. Suggestions of white lilies, acacia, and white peach provide a gentle complexity, while the generous, yet laid-back texture contrasts with the zestier Rieslings above. The Geisberg speaks softly but has a lot to say; a delicately prepared white fish is the perfect backdrop for it to express its subtleties.
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