2017 Burgundy, 2018 Beaujolais
by Tom Wolf
Harvest at Château Thivin in the Côte de Brouilly
Harvest at Château Thivin in the Côte de Brouilly
2017 Burgundy, 2018 Beaujolais
by Tom Wolf
Over the last several weeks, we have received shipments of 2017 red and white Burgundy and 2018 Beaujolais. Tasting these wines has been extraordinarily pleasurable. The vast majority of them won’t require years to open up—they are already very charming.
Compared to many recent vintages ravaged by frost, hail, or drought, 2017 was a godsend for producers in Burgundy. For a few days in April 2017, everyone was nervous that frost would once again put a severe dent in the crop. A few factors, however, combined to prevent April 2017 from repeating the tragic fate of the April 2016 frost. For one, temperatures didn’t stay quite as low for quite as long in 2017, and conditions were windier and less humid, ensuring that no water in the air froze around the vine’s buds. Second, many growers banded together to burn hay to provide cover and warmth over the vines during the few nights where the frost risk was highest.
Which of these factors was the most essential to the health and safety of the buds in 2017 is up for debate. What is essentially consensus, though, is that these wines are exquisite and many of them already approachable. Bruno Colin arguably made the best reds of his career. Most of Domaine Pierre Guillemot’s reds are bright, exuberant, and begging to be opened right now. That doesn’t mean, however, that the best 2017s don’t offer tremendous cellaring potential. Comtesse de Chérisey’s Meursault-Blagnys and Puligny-Montrachets are lush and luxurious now, but they will only get better with time.
In Beaujolais, 2018 similarly provided conditions conducive to both fine balance and abundance. Despite the hot weather that persisted throughout most of the summer, the cool, wet spring provided reserves in the soil that led to wines that are extroverted and elegant. Last week, we tasted many of the wines below and were wowed bottle after bottle. They all offer hedonistic pleasure now while showing signs of good structure for drinking further down the road, too.
With this abundance of riches freshly arrived from the superb 2017 and 2018 vintages, there is no better time to stock up for the end of year and beyond!
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