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This Terroir Is Worth All the Trouble

This Terroir Is Worth All the Trouble

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2022 Patrimonio Rouge “Cru Des Agriate”

2022 Patrimonio Rouge “Cru Des Agriate”

Domaine Giacometti   

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Domaine Giacometti    France   |  Corsica   |  Patrimonio

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After a recent tasting at Domaine Giacometti in Corsica’s Agriates Desert, a KLWM delegation had almost reached the end of the long, steep dirt road leading away from the domaine when the tiny Citroën’s right front tire popped. The car’s laughably small trunk had no spare, there was no cell signal to be found in this corner of the desert, and vigneron Simon Giacometti—who fixes tractor tires himself—confirmed this was a lost cause when he arrived to inspect the damage.
      An hour later, a tow truck appeared and hauled the Citroën to Saint-Florent, a quaint seaside town half an hour away, and eventually all was well again, but this ordeal illustrated some of the hurdles of making and importing wine from the rugged and windswept Agriates Desert. Every time you taste the Giacometti family’s range of Corsican beauties, though, you realize right away why this unexpectedly great wine terroir is worth all the trouble. Named for the desert where the family set up shop four decades ago, their Patrimonio rouge “Cru des Agriate” is like an iron fist in a velvet glove. At once succulent, soulful, and chiseled, it’s a singular expression of this unique land and counts among the best values in our portfolio.

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About The Region

Corsica

map of Corsica

I first set foot on the island in 1980. I remember looking down from the airplane window seeing alpine forest and lakes and thinking, uh oh, I got on the wrong plane. Then suddenly I was looking down into the beautiful waters of the Mediterranean. Corsica is a small, impossibly tall island, the tail of the Alp chain rising out of the blue sea.—Kermit Lynch

Kermit’s first trip to the island proved fruitful, with his discovery of Clos Nicrosi’s Vermentino. More than thirty years later, the love affair with Corsica has only grown as we now import wines from ten domaines that cover the north, south, east, and west of what the French affectionately refer to as l’Île de Beauté.

Corsica is currently experiencing somewhat of a renaissance—interest has never been higher in the wines and much of this is due to growers focusing on indigenous and historical grapes found on the island. Niellucciu, Sciarcarellu, and Vermentinu are widely planted but it is now common to find bottlings of Biancu Gentile and Carcaghjolu Neru as well as blends with native varieties like Rossola Bianca, Minustellu, or Montaneccia.

As Kermit described above, Corsica has a strikingly mountainous landscape. The granite peaks top out above 9,000 feet. The terroir is predominantly granite with the exception of the Patrimonio appellation in the north, which has limestone, clay, and schist soils.The wines, much like their southern French counterparts make for great pairings with the local charcuterie, often made from Nustrale, the native wild boar, as well as Brocciu, the Corsican goats milk cheese that is best served within 48 hours of it being made.

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Inspiring Thirst

A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!

Inspiring Thirst, page 117

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