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2020 Mâcon-Fuissé “Les Tâches”

Domaine Robert-Denogent
Discount Eligible $52.00
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It seems that American bakeries are using more and more almond—frangipane and marzipan—which, in my opinion, is a very welcome development. Almond croissants are now ubiquitous. Fruit tarts with frangipane filling, and even galettes des rois can be found behind the glass case with more regularity.
     I’ve tried my hand at the last, using David Lebovitz’s recipe as inspiration. The difference in his is that he adds orange zest to the almond filling, giving a subtle citrus freshness to the galette’s otherwise rich core.
     The Roberts’ Mâcon-Fuissé reminds me of that brilliant almond-tang infusion, only if you substitute lemon or lime zest for orange. This wine possesses a regal richness, but is balanced by mouthwatering citrus that is woven throughout.

Tom Wolf


Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2020
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Chardonnay
Appellation: Mâcon-Fuissé
Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Producer: Domaine Robert-Denogent
Vineyard: 15 years, .27 ha
Soil: Limestone
Farming: Lutte Raisonnée
Alcohol: 14%

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About The Region

Burgundy

map of Burgundy

In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.

Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.

To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.

Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.

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Kermit inspecting wine barrels

For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.