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2020 Reuilly Pinot Noir
Domaine de Reuilly
An hour south of Orléans, in the heart of France, the commune of Reuilly sits at a singular crossroads in the Loire Valley. Reuilly’s bread and butter is Sauvignon Blanc, one of the Loire’s most beloved grape varieties, but you can also hear echoes of Burgundy in this tiny appellation. Not only are Reuilly’s soils graced with Kimmeridgian limestone—the iconic ancient marine bedrock that defines Chablis—but Reuilly is also home to a long tradition of Pinot Noir cultivation. We now have one in stock, and it is simply delicious.
In spite of these Burgundian associations, though, Pinot Noir from the central and eastern Loire—namely Reuilly and Sancerre—yields wines that are entirely distinct from their exalted and more illustrious relatives to the east. In recent decades, Reuilly rouge has been a staple of Parisian bistros because, at its best, it delivers unrivaled suppleness and an ethereal quality—ideal for quaffing alongside classics like pâté, coq au vin, and steak frites. Thanks to a long history working both organically and biodynamically in his vines, these virtues of Reuilly are on full display in Denis Jamain’s rouge, particularly after a little time spent opening up in a decanter or in your glass. There’s vitality and freshness in the wine, which evokes cherries, blood orange, herbs, and flowers. In addition to the bistro classics above, this Pinot is wonderfully suited to a wild mushroom pasta, sautéed root vegetables, a hard and flavorful cheese like Comté, or roast rosemary chicken.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2020 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Pinot Noir |
| Appellation: | Reuilly |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine de Reuilly |
| Winemaker: | Denis Jamain |
| Vineyard: | 23 years average, 4 ha |
| Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
| Farming: | Biodynamic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Domaine de Reuilly
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171