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2021 Chinon “Les Varennes du Grand Clos”
Charles Joguet
Vintage 2021 produced elegant Cabernet Francs laden with floral, raspberry, and black tea notes, and they’re just hitting their stride. Joguet’s refined Varennes du Grand Clos has fine-grained, mineral tannins—the product of healthy vines tended by skilled hands—that seem to melt into the richness of a marbled steak or seared duck breast in an almost magical way. This succulent alchemy is a welcome reassurance that, at least when it comes to food and wine, a classic pairing need not be fussy to be greater than the sum of its parts.
—Dustin Soiseth
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2021 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
| Appellation: | Chinon |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Charles Joguet |
| Winemaker: | Kevin Fontaine |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 1962 to 1976, 4.61 ha |
| Soil: | Siliceous chalk & clay |
| Aging: | Wine ages in oak fûts for 15-16 months, depending on the vintage, after racking, the finished wine rests assembled in cuve for two months before bottling |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 13% |
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2021 Saumur-Champigny “Franc de Pied”
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About The Producer
Charles Joguet
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2022 Bourgueil “Clos Sénéchal”
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2016 Jasnières “Chant de Vigne”
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2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Le Prieuré”
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2021 Vin de France Rosé Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Les Arceaux”
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2022 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Réserve”
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174