Notify me
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
Domaine Michel Brégeon
My notes from a recent tasting started with “reminded how good these wines are.” Each sip of Gorges spreads out over your palate like hollandaise poured over a plate of white asparagus, the zing and verve of Muscadet augmented by nuttiness and the velvety texture of extended aging.
—Dustin Soiseth
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2020 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Melon de Bourgogne |
| Appellation: | Muscadet |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine Michel Brégeon |
| Winemaker: | Fred Lailler |
| Vineyard: | 50 years average, 7.8 ha total |
| Soil: | Gabbro |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 11% |
More from this Producer or Region
Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
France | Loire
The standard that Catherine Breton and her son Paul hold their Vouvray Brut to is not other Loire sparkling wines, but Champagne.
2022 Jasnières “Cuvée Sainte Narcisse”
France | Loire
It might be the most unusual and most delicious top-quality sweet wine you have ever tried.
2021 Vin de France Blanche
France | Loire
This skin-contact wine is redolent of blood orange and hyssop—a perfect apéritif for olives and anchovies.
2025 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
France | Loire
The 2025 vintage has its trademark elegance, with notes of blackberries, forest, and graphite.
2022 Vouvray “Bois Guyon”
France | Loire
Unique in its combination of honeyed richness and flinty verve. Hard to resist on its own, but you might also try serving it with salty-sweet yakitori or buffalo chicken wings.
2020 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson “La Molette”
France | Loire
A subtly floral nose and textured mouthfeel seal the deal. This is off-the-charts Muscadet.
2018 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Gorges”
France | Loire
Gorges boasts an incredible texture and tension imparted by decomposed, blue-green igneous rock, seventy-year-old vines, and years-long aging on the lees.
2024 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie
France | Loire
Classic Muscadet aromas endure, but there’s a complexity here that’s uncommon for an appellation known for its simple oyster wines.
2022 Jasnières “Dyane”
France | Loire
Juicy and open-knit, it mirrors the sensation of biting into fleshy slices of white peach, nectarine, and guava.
2022 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine “Réserve”
France | Loire
When you smell it, keep in mind that no other wine, besides a Melon de Bourgogne grown in the gabbro soil of Gorges, could possibly smell like this one does.
About The Producer
Domaine Michel Brégeon
Michel Brégeon is part renegade, part crusader, and full-blown terroirist, ardently defending the Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine terroir. Thanks to his deep understanding of the land, he plays the game much differently than the region’s caves cooperatives and negociants, who produce en masse and lose the subtlety of the appellation. He worked for his family’s domaine before setting out on his own in 1975. When his father retired in 1989, he gave his remaining vineyard land to Michel. Today, Michel farms seven hectares of vineyards in clay, silica, and gabbro soils. Gabbro is old, blue-green, volcanic rock, rarely found in vineyard land. Formed by magma eruptions under the ocean floor, it imparts intense complexity to Michel’s wines.
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2019 Vouvray “Bois Guyon”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Bourgueil Clairet “Avis de Vin Fort”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2024 Chardonnay
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2025 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2025 Jasnières “Cuvée du Silex”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé
Domaine de Reuilly France | Loire
2025 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”
Régis Minet France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2022 Sancerre “Hameau de Reigny”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Rosé Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Les Arceaux”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
2019 Vouvray “Bois Guyon”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Bourgueil Clairet “Avis de Vin Fort”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2024 Chardonnay
Eric Chevalier France | Loire
2025 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2025 Jasnières “Cuvée du Silex”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Reuilly Pinot Gris Rosé
Domaine de Reuilly France | Loire
2025 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”
Régis Minet France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Trinch!”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2022 Sancerre “Hameau de Reigny”
Daniel Chotard France | Loire
2021 Vin de France Rosé Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Les Arceaux”
Grange Saint-Sauveur France | Loire
Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch