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2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “Santa Maria”
Colleoni
Instead of tilling his vineyards like most growers do, Marino Colleoni “crimps” the wild vegetation, flattening it to create a natural ground cover all while preserving soil structure. This practice is increasingly common among forward-thinking farmers in dry regions, but what sets Marino apart from the rest is that he does it all by hand—or, rather, by foot: he walks through each row, stepping on every blade of grass to create a thick mat that will protect the soil through the hot summer. This might seem onerous for something that could much more quickly be achieved on a tractor, but it is one of many details that make Marino such an incredibly thoughtful, compassionate vignaiolo. There is intention with every step he takes—literally—culminating in finessed Brunello brimming with purity and fresh energy. From a cool site at high elevation, his Santa Maria Riserva exudes the gentle touch proper to this Montalcino artisan, with a seductive aroma of rose petals.
—Anthony Lynch
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2019 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Sangiovese |
| Appellation: | Brunello di Montalcino |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Tuscany |
| Producer: | Colleoni |
| Winemaker: | Luisa & Marino Colleoni |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 1998; 1.5 ha total |
| Soil: | Clay, limestone |
| Aging: | Elevage of at least 54 months in Slavonian oak botti |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
Colleoni
Luisa and Marino Colleoni’s native Bergamo is famous for its medieval palaces, but to them it just couldn’t compare to Tuscany. The couple purchased a property outside Montalcino known as Le Sante Marie and moved in 1993. During a walk, they spotted grapes through the leaves of a tree. They got to work clearing away scrub and when they finished, a neatly planted vineyard lay before them. They summoned an inspector and had the vineyard certified for Brunello. They embraced organic viticulture, and constantly search for even more natural methods. The northern exposure, high altitude, and marl soil that of this property all combine to give elegant and fine Brunellos that sets itself apart from the majority of Brunellos in Montalcino.
About The Region
Tuscany
Perhaps no region is tied to Italy’s reputation as a producer of fine wine as much as Tuscany. Since Etruscan times, viticulture has played a prominent role in this idyllic land of rolling hills, and the Tuscan winemaking tradition remains as strong as ever today. With a favorable Mediterranean climate, an undulating topography offering countless altitudes and expositions, and a wealth of poor, well-draining soils, conditions are ideal for crafting high-quality wines. Add to that the rich gastronomical tradition—Tuscany is home to some of the country’s finest game, pastas, salumi, and cheeses—and you have the blueprint for a world-class wine region.
This is Sangiovese territory; in fact, it is arguably the only place in the world where Sangiovese reaches a truly regal expression. In spite of a rocky history with fluctuations in quality, traditionally produced Chianti has reclaimed its status as one of the country’s most reliable, food-friendly reds, while the rapid rise of Brunello di Montalcino shows the grape’s potential for grandiose, opulent reds allying power and finesse. Traditionally-minded growers have stuck to using only indigenous grape varieties and employing techniques like aging in massive wooden casks known as botti, creating wines of terroir that shine at the Tuscan table.
Tuscan wines have had a place in our portfolio since Kermit’s first visit in 1977. While the names of the estates have changed, the spirit of those first unfiltered Chiantis he imported live on through our current selections.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch