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The Vibrant Side of Fantino’s Cellar

The Vibrant Side of Fantino’s Cellar

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2019 Barbera d’Alba Superiore

2019 Barbera d’Alba Superiore

A. & G. Fantino   

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Descend into the Fantino brothers’ humble cellar beneath the village of Monforte d’Alba and the first thing you notice are the large, vertical Slavonian oak barrels, where, for a minimum of four years, Nebbiolo takes its time developing into deep and complex Barolo.
      At the other end of the cellar stand large stainless steel tanks in which Alessandro and Gian Natale age their more approachable and exuberant Barbera for a year and a half with the aim of preserving as much young charm, fragrant fruit, and bright acidity as possible.
      Depending on the vintage, the Fantinos’ Barbera can show a stronger side of this grape variety with robust concentration and flavors, or a lither and more refined side. The 2019 rendition embodies the latter with its elegant and versatile profile and notes of cherries, cranberries, and blood orange that pair as perfectly with pizza as with Chris Lee’s risotto with figs and prosciutto.

Click here for Chris Lee’s recipe.

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About The Region

Piedmont

map of Piedmont

Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.

Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.

Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.

Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171