2015 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Chalumaux”Comtesse de Chérisey
France | Burgundy
$120
Producers
You might notice a brand-new mention adorning the back label of Moretto’s intoxicating dry Lambrusco: “Montebarello 155” refers to an association of growers within the Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC, denoting wines crafted exclusively from hillside sites. Most Lambrusco is grown in the high-yielding, fertile plains of the Po Valley, and even within this small appellation only a portion of vineyards can boast the terroir perks of the cooler, drier foothills. In the glass, this translates to vivid and complex aromas of wild berries, penetrating flavor, and an almost dusty mineral backbone. Once again, Moretto sets the standard for dry sparkling red wine—the new vintage is dangerously hard to put down.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | NV |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Lambrusco Grasparossa |
Appellation: | Emilia-Romagna |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Emilia-Romagna |
Producer: | Fattoria Moretto |
Winemaker: | Altariva Family |
Vineyard: | 19-39 years |
Soil: | Clay and silt |
Aging: | Aged in stainless steel |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 11.5% |
Primarily dominated by the expansive plains of the Po Valley, Emilia-Romagna—a diagonal band stretching from Piacenza in the north all the way to Rimini in the southeast—also features a long span of Apennine Mountains and foothills, at the base of which lie its major cities such as Parma, Modena, and Bologna along the historic Via Emilia. While the flatlands are home to some viticulture, the Apennines provide elevation and ventilation in contrast with the hot, humid, stagnant valley below, in addition to poor, well-draining soils favorable to the production of more serious wines.
Given the rich local cuisine that relies heavily on lard, cheese, and fatty meats like pork, Emilia-Romagna is first and foremost a land of fizzy wines. These light frizzanti have the acidity to cut through fat along with a palate-cleansing sparkle. Most important is the indigenous red Lambrusco, a family of grapes whose wines brilliantly complement flavorful dishes such as tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini al brodo, or simple antipasti of local meats and cheeses like prosciutto di Parma, mortadella, and parmigiano reggiano (if you’re lucky, drizzled with traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena).
While Lambrusco’s image suffered in the past because of mass-produced sweet versions, small producers today are crafting traditional, terroir-driven dry wines that are absolutely mouth-watering. These jovial, food-friendly quaffers are right at home in the KLWM portfolio.
Gregoletto Italy | Veneto | Colli Trevigiani
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily | Etna Rosso
Giulia Negri Italy | Piedmont | Barolo
La Basia Italy | Lombardy
Manni Nössing Italy | Alto Adige | Alto Adige – Valle Isarco
Vignai da Duline Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Riofavara Italy | Sicily | Eloro
Masseria del Pino Italy | Sicily | Etna Rosso
Edi Kante Italy | Friuli | Venezia Giulia
Vigneti Vecchio Italy | Sicily | Terre Siciliane Rosso
Piero Benevelli Italy | Piedmont | Langhe
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
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