2021 Beaujolais-VillagesAlex Foillard
France | Beaujolais
$32
Producers
When brothers Nico and Antoine Robert learned of a parcel of century-old vines—Gamay with a smattering of Pinot Noir—available for rent in the northern Mâconnais, they could not resist. This ancient parcel had always been farmed organically, a tradition continued under their care for just two years until they gave up the vineyard, deeming it too distant from their cellar in Fuissé.
The Roberts employed 100% whole-cluster fermentation for their first ever Mâcon rouge, aging the wine in neutral barrels and bottling it unfiltered with very little sulfur. This rare treat presents bright, juicy red fruit seasoned with just the right amount of earthy funk, resulting in a mouth-watering delight to drink chilled over the next five years with charcuterie, cheeses, and a rowdy group of friends.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2018 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 90% Gamay, 10% Pinot Noir |
Appellation: | Mâcon-Burgy |
Country: | France |
Region: | Beaujolais |
Producer: | Domaine Robert-Denogent |
Winemaker: | Antoine & Nicolas Robert |
Vineyard: | 100 year-old vines |
Soil: | Clay, limestone |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13% |
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy | Viré-Clessé
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy | Pouilly-Fuissé
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy | Mâcon-Villages
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy | Pouilly-Fuissé
Domaine Robert-Denogent France | Burgundy | Pouilly-Fuissé
La Soeur Cadette France | Beaujolais | Juliénas
After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.
The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.
Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.
Quentin Harel France | Beaujolais | Morgon
Domaine Chignard France | Beaujolais | Fleurie
Guy Breton France | Beaujolais | Côte de Brouilly
Nicole Chanrion France | Beaujolais
Château Thivin France | Beaujolais | Côte de Brouilly
M. & C. Lapierre France | Beaujolais | Beaujolais
Domaine Dupeuble France | Beaujolais | Beaujolais
Nicole Chanrion France | Beaujolais | Côte-de-Brouilly
Jean Foillard France | Beaujolais | Beaujolais-Villages
Guy Breton France | Beaujolais | Morgon
Domaine Chignard France | Beaujolais | Juliénas
A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!
Inspiring Thirst, page 117
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