2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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Manni Nössing’s small estate lies in Bressanone, a village in the heart of the narrow Alpine valley known as the Valle Isarco. Just miles from the Austrian border, Manni’s vines are subject to a mountain climate in what is Italy’s northernmost grape-growing district. The cool conditions are ideal for producing racy, mineral-driven whites, and the grapes that fare best here—Kerner, Müller Thurgau, Grüner Veltliner—are imports from Austria and Germany. Grüner does superbly on these steep granitic slopes, and Manni has mastered farming and winemaking to achieve the right balance of mouthwatering acidity with sun-endowed ripeness and concentration. Like many growers in the area, he used to sell his grapes to the local co-op, but then he decided to vinify and bottle his own wine—a decision we applaud with each thirst-defying sip of his pure, invigorating whites. Stone, spice, and floral aromas make this example a truly compelling taste of the Dolomites.
|Appellation:||Alto Adige – Valle Isarco|
|Vineyard:||2-15 years, 1.2 ha|
|Aging:||Temperature-controlled fermentation 50% in stainless steel vats, 50% in 30-hL, 5-year-old acacia botti lasts about 10-12 days|
Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
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