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2018 Anjou Rouge “Clos de la Cerisaie”
Château d’Épiré
One of the last growers to produce Cabernet Franc in the Savennières appellation, Paul Bizard, who recently took the reins from his father, Luc, is as proud as he is protective of the domaine’s rare hectare of rouge. He sent us a picture of thirty beehives he installed in the vineyard in 2018 and announced that his next project is to replant cherry trees, the namesake of the clos. As for the wine, it’s a bottle “without pretension, but joy-enhancing,” which pretty much says it all.
—Emily Spillmann
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2018 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Cabernet Franc |
| Appellation: | Savennières |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Château d'Épiré |
| Winemaker: | Luc Bizard |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 1973, 1976, 2016, 1.5 ha |
| Soil: | Schist |
| Aging: | Wine ages in 30 hectoliter stainless steel tanks until spring |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 12.5% |
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About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2017 Jasnières “Chant de Vigne”
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2024 Menetou-Salon Blanc “Cuvée des Bénédictins”
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2021 Vin de France Rosé Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Les Arceaux”
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171