2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
In the land of Her Royal Majesty Montrachet, the crème de la crème of all things Chardonnay, the Colin family looms tall with their history, holdings, and impeccable reputation. Within this large clan, we have worked with two, a father and his son, who have managed and run two distinctly different estates. Up until a few years ago, father Michel made just a handful of barrels of his rustic, voluminous whites under the label Colin-Deléger. Son Bruno, meanwhile, has a wide palette of small parcels covering all facets of Montrachet country. Whereas Michel liked his blancs with more fortitude—the brioche, hazelnut, and truffle side of things—Bruno’s wines tend toward the white fruit, citrus, and pronounced minerality side of the spectrum. They show tremendous class and charm, true to the Colin prestige.
Bruno’s generic Bourgogne blanc is anything but generic: aged in barrels alongside his top growths, it delivers a blast of clean, pure, chalky Chardonnay fruit with plenty of complexity. It makes for a wonderfully approachable introduction to the great whites of the Côte de Beaune.
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2018 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Chardonnay |
Appellation: | Bourgogne |
Country: | France |
Region: | Burgundy |
Producer: | Bruno Colin |
Vineyard: | 21 years, .37 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 13% |
Bruno Colin France | Burgundy | Chassagne-Montrachet
Bruno Colin France | Burgundy | Chassagne-Montrachet
La Soeur Cadette France | Burgundy | Bourgogne
Didier Meuzard France | Burgundy | Ratafia de Bourgogne
Henri Costal France | Burgundy | Chablis
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy | Bourgogne
In eastern central France, Burgundy is nestled between the wine regions of Champagne to the north, the Jura to the east, the Loire to the west, and the Rhône to the south. This is the terroir par excellence for producing world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The southeast-facing hillside between Dijon in the north and Maranges in the south is known as the Côte d’Or or “golden slope.” The Côte d’Or comprises two main sections, both composed of limestone and clay soils: the Côte de Nuits in the northern sector, and the Côte de Beaune in the south. Both areas produce magnificent whites and reds, although the Côte de Beaune produces more white wine and the Côte de Nuits more red.
Chablis is Burgundy’s northern outpost, known for its flinty and age-worthy Chardonnays planted in Kimmeridgian limestone on an ancient seabed. Vézelay is a smaller area south of Chablis with similar qualities, although the limestone there is not Kimmeridgian.
To the south of the Côte de Beaune, the Côte Chalonnaise extends from Chagny on its northern end, down past Chalon-sur-Saône and encompasses the appellations of Bouzeron in the north, followed by Rully, Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny.
Directly south of the Chalonnaise begins the Côte Mâconnais, which extends south past Mâcon to the hamlets of Fuissé, Vinzelles, Chaintré, and Saint-Véran. The Mâconnais is prime Chardonnay country and contains an incredible diversity of soils.
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Domaine de Villaine France | Burgundy | Rully
Domaine Robert Chevillon France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils France | Burgundy | Nuits-Saint-Georges
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Pernand-Vergelesses
Domaine Pierre Guillemot France | Burgundy | Bourgogne
Domaine Follin-Arbelet France | Burgundy | Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Domaine Méo-Camuzet France | Burgundy | Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Domaine Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy | Chablis
Domaine Taupenot-Merme France | Burgundy | Mazoyères Chambertin
Domaine Roland Lavantureux France | Burgundy | Chablis
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171
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