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2017 Mataòssu “Vigneto Reiné”

Punta Crena
Discount Eligible $28.00
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New vintages seem to arrive here in the US right when they “should”—rosés in spring and summer, reds from Burgundy and Rhône in the late fall. The wines from Punta Crena, our Ligurian farmhouse gem of a winery, always arrive late August or early September. On the surface, the wines from Punta Crena seem like they are meant for easy summer drinking, as they are grown in Varigotti, a touristy beach town that is over-run during the summer season. But these wines have an extra gear, particularly the whites, that take them out of the “just kick it back” category. That’s fine to do of course—vignaiolo Paolo Ruffino is no stranger to doing just that—but there’s something about the seasons where we spend more time indoors that helps you to focus a bit more on what’s in your glass.
         I change my go-to Punta Crena white each year and right now I’m reaching for the 2017 Mataòssu. It’s highly likely that you’ve only heard of the Mataòssu grape in our newsletter, as Paolo claims he is the only grower of this variety. The Mataòssu draws you in with fresh-cut white flowers on the nose, but that extra gear I was talking about? That kicks in on the palate—first, a hint of honeydew melon; second, a texture and grain that sink in; third, a rich, mouth-coating honeyed note; and fourth, all of that combines and lingers.

Clark Z. Terry


Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2017
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Mataòssu
Appellation: Colline Savonesi
Country: Italy
Region: Liguria
Producer: Punta Crena
Winemaker: Tommaso Ruffino & Family
Vineyard: 81 years, 0.9 ha
Soil: Silt
Farming: Traditional
Alcohol: 12.5%

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About The Region

Liguria

map of Liguria

A long, crescent-shaped sliver of mountainous coastline ranging from the French border in the west to that of Tuscany in the east, Liguria is a region of unrivaled Mediterranean charm. This applies not only to its colorful seaside villages and carefree, welcoming people, but also to the wines it produces—crisp whites and light reds designed to be quaffed with locally caught seafood.

Viticulture has thrived along these coastal hillsides since Etruscan times. Ancient stone terraces line the steep slopes all along the Riviera, many abandoned while others still host olive trees, lemon trees, and of course, the vine. What Liguria lacks in acreage, it makes up for in diversity and originality: home to numerous indigenous grape varieties, it produces wines of infectious local character.

The hallmarks of Ligurian wines are fragrant aromatics and lively freshness. Whites from grapes like Vermentino and Pigato capture the pervasive flavors of wild herbs and citrus with a sea-breeze salinity, while the rare reds from Rossese, among others, have a brightness of flavor that allows them to complement dishes from the sea or land—served with a slight chill, of course.

While Kermit’s history in the region is relatively recent, Liguria has rapidly become one of his favorite places to visit. It’s hard to blame him—enjoying a crisp, perfumed white with a platter of fried sea critters on the Mediterranean is definitely not the worst part of the job.

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Where the newsletter started

Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch

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