New vintages seem to arrive here in the US right when they “should”—rosés in spring and summer, reds from Burgundy and Rhône in the late fall. The wines from Punta Crena, our Ligurian farmhouse gem of a winery, always arrive late August or early September. On the surface, the wines from Punta Crena seem like they are meant for easy summer drinking, as they are grown in Varigotti, a touristy beach town that is over-run during the summer season. But these wines have an extra gear, particularly the whites, that take them out of the “just kick it back” category. That’s fine to do of course—vignaiolo Paolo Ruffino is no stranger to doing just that—but there’s something about the seasons where we spend more time indoors that helps you to focus a bit more on what’s in your glass. I change my go-to Punta Crena white each year and right now I’m reaching for the 2017 Mataòssu. It’s highly likely that you’ve only heard of the Mataòssu grape in our newsletter, as Paolo claims he is the only grower of this variety. The Mataòssu draws you in with fresh-cut white flowers on the nose, but that extra gear I was talking about? That kicks in on the palate—first, a hint of honeydew melon; second, a texture and grain that sink in; third, a rich, mouth-coating honeyed note; and fourth, all of that combines and lingers.
The vineyards of Punta Crena (which is named for a large promontory jutting into the sea at the edge of the village) are all within 1200 meters of the water and enjoy sea breezes that help keep the grapes healthy and happy. The Ruffino family are proud to work almost exclusively with local varietals, but they dont have much company. As a result, several of Punta Crenas wines are one of a kind: the Mataòssu and Cruvin are entirely unique, and the Barbarossa is the only one produced in Italy. They believe that their only job after the harvest is simply to avoid ruining their lovely fruit as it turns to wine. These are light, fun wines with no pretension.
A long, crescent-shaped sliver of mountainous coastline ranging from the French border in the west to that of Tuscany in the east, Liguria is a region of unrivaled Mediterranean charm. This applies not only to its colorful seaside villages and carefree, welcoming people, but also to the wines it produces—crisp whites and light reds designed to be quaffed with locally caught seafood.
Viticulture has thrived along these coastal hillsides since Etruscan times. Ancient stone terraces line the steep slopes all along the Riviera, many abandoned while others still host olive trees, lemon trees, and of course, the vine. What Liguria lacks in acreage, it makes up for in diversity and originality: home to numerous indigenous grape varieties, it produces wines of infectious local character.
The hallmarks of Ligurian wines are fragrant aromatics and lively freshness. Whites from grapes like Vermentino and Pigato capture the pervasive flavors of wild herbs and citrus with a sea-breeze salinity, while the rare reds from Rossese, among others, have a brightness of flavor that allows them to complement dishes from the sea or land—served with a slight chill, of course.
While Kermit’s history in the region is relatively recent, Liguria has rapidly become one of his favorite places to visit. It’s hard to blame him—enjoying a crisp, perfumed white with a platter of fried sea critters on the Mediterranean is definitely not the worst part of the job.
Trust the great winemakers, trust the great vineyards. Your wine merchant might even be trustworthy. In the long run, that vintage strip may be the least important guide to quality on your bottle of wine.—Kermit Lynch
Hot in your area? Pick up in our shop or we’ll hold your wine until it’s a good time to ship.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa