2016 Vouvray “Le Portail”Champalou
France | Loire
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I love talking with people about this wine because I get to tell them that it spends ten months in botti grandi—my favorite Italian wine-related phrase, which is almost impossible to pronounce without a cheesy Italian accent. Try it and you’ll see. Those few months in “big barrels” allow the wine to soften and breathe a bit without imparting a ton of tannin or oak. That is good, because this Barbera has plenty of grip on its own, and covering up this gorgeous fruit would be a crime. With big, ripe flavors, this bottling is perfect with a rich, meaty ragù or a deep-dish pizza.
|Vineyard:||25 years, 1.5 ha|
|Soil:||Grey marl and bluish limestone|
|Aging:||Ages 6 months in old barrels, then 6 more months in large Slovenian oak barrels|
Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.
Inspiring Thirst, page 312
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