Meyer-Fonné’s 2022 has a floral, perfumed nose—perhaps from a splash of Muscat?—and a soft mid-palate with green apple and pear—surely a sign of Pinot Blanc in there.

That grapes can be cajoled and fashioned to make such a liquid is miraculous. This aroma is beyond belief.

This rich, gastronomic crémant with fine and elegant bubbles will have even the Champagne purist singing its praises.

Félix Meyer’s old-vine Pinot Blanc from the slopes of Katzenthal, in Alsace, has long overdelivered in the role of the proverbial “crisp white” for which we long.

Meyer’s 2020 is lovely stuff—fermented dry, full-bodied in style, it shines at table in a multitude of gastronomic settings with kaleidoscopic range.

This Riesling “Katz,” as we call it, is a beautifully linear and chiseled style of Riesling, fresh and pure.

A fragrant blend of mostly Riesling and Muscat, Félix Meyer’s organically grown Gentil is crisp and lean and works like a reset button for your palate.

A grainy texture and a lightness on its feet that his other more powerful and structured Pinots grown in limestone do not possess.

This bottle gives some of my favorite grand cru Rieslings a run for their money with a nose evoking peach skin and pear and a palate that ripples with fresh acidity.

From the exceedingly fine and elegant nose to the creamy and lacy texture, the overall balance and touch, and its hint of salty freshness, this wine shows how understated, finessed, and downright glorious dry Pinot Gris can be in Alsace.