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2015 Régnié “Grain & Granit”

Charly Thévenet

2015 Régnié “Grain & Granit” Charly Thévenet - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
The son of “Gang of Four” Morgon producer Jean-Paul Thévenet, Charly had early exposure to the world of organic farming and natural winemaking. Passionate about the family business, he struck out on his own as soon as the opportunity presented itself, purchasing a parcel of eighty-year-old vines in the neighboring cru of Régnié. Today, he works side by side with his father, so while they sell their Morgon and Régnié under separate labels, they collaborate in the production of both wines. As with the Morgon, Charly’s Régnié grapes are harvested when fully ripe, by hand, then vinified via whole-cluster fermentation, in typical Beaujolais fashion. The wine is aged in neutral Burgundian barrels before bottling without fining or filtration. The 2015 vintage gives us a rich, bold, and spicy Régnié, saturated with luscious fruit and earthy funk. Serve it with grilled sausages, or let it sit in your cellar for a few years before uncorking.

Anthony Lynch

$32.00
Vintage: 2015
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Gamay
Appellation: Régnié
Country: France
Region: Beaujolais
Producer: Charly Thévenet
Winemaker: Charly Thévenet
Vineyard: 80 yrs +, 3 ha
Soil: Granite
Aging: Wines aged on fine lees in old Burgundy barrels, no fining or filtration
Farming: Biodynamic (practicing)
Alcohol: 12.5%

More from this Producer or Region

About Beaujolais

After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.

The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.

Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.

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Great winemakers, great terroirs, there is never any hurry. And I no longer buy into this idea of “peak” maturity. Great winemakers, great terroirs, their wines offer different pleasures at different ages.

Inspiring Thirst, page 312

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