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2015 Colline Savonesi Mataòssu Bianco “Vigneto Reiné”

Punta Crena
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According to Paolo,

The Reinè vineyard was planted with Mataòssu in 1930 by my grandfather Francescu, helped by his eldest sons Angelo and Guglielmo (my uncles). These were difficult times, between two world wars, but my grandfather was very courageous. He built terraces and prepared the earth by hand, without tractors, and established a masterpiece that we still admire and proudly cultivate to this day.

The eighty-six-year-old Mataòssu vines in Reinè represent some of the very last remaining plantings of this fascinating indigenous white grape. The 2015 evokes grapefruit, smoke, herbs, and sea mist, with fresh acidity slicing through its oily texture before a vibrant, saline finish. –Anthony Lynch

Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2015
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Mataòssu
Appellation: Colline Savonesi
Country: Italy
Region: Liguria
Producer: Punta Crena
Winemaker: Paolo Ruffino
Vineyard: 86 years, 0.9 ha
Soil: Silt
Farming: Traditional
Alcohol: 12.5%

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About The Region

Liguria

map of Liguria

A long, crescent-shaped sliver of mountainous coastline ranging from the French border in the west to that of Tuscany in the east, Liguria is a region of unrivaled Mediterranean charm. This applies not only to its colorful seaside villages and carefree, welcoming people, but also to the wines it produces—crisp whites and light reds designed to be quaffed with locally caught seafood.

Viticulture has thrived along these coastal hillsides since Etruscan times. Ancient stone terraces line the steep slopes all along the Riviera, many abandoned while others still host olive trees, lemon trees, and of course, the vine. What Liguria lacks in acreage, it makes up for in diversity and originality: home to numerous indigenous grape varieties, it produces wines of infectious local character.

The hallmarks of Ligurian wines are fragrant aromatics and lively freshness. Whites from grapes like Vermentino and Pigato capture the pervasive flavors of wild herbs and citrus with a sea-breeze salinity, while the rare reds from Rossese, among others, have a brightness of flavor that allows them to complement dishes from the sea or land—served with a slight chill, of course.

While Kermit’s history in the region is relatively recent, Liguria has rapidly become one of his favorite places to visit. It’s hard to blame him—enjoying a crisp, perfumed white with a platter of fried sea critters on the Mediterranean is definitely not the worst part of the job.

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Old cob-webbed wine bottles

Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.