When we first began working with the Fantino brothers in Monforte, they had made the decision to lighten up their Rosso and make the most aromatic, easily drinkable Langhe Rosso possible. They chose to do it with none other than Nebbiolo, one of the world’s most tannic grapes. The result, I think, is miraculous. The world has never known such delicious, immediately accessible Nebbiolo. Let yourself be seduced by its charms. (Feel free to ask any of our retail staff whether I am exaggerating when you call to order; they consume more than anyone else.)
Two brothers, Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino, run this family estate in Monforte d’Alba. Alessandro managed the vineyards and served as the enologist at Cantina Bartolo Mascarello for 20 years, from 1978 to 1997. The brothers farm eight hectares in the heart of the historic Bussia cru, one of Barolo’s most famous areas for producing wines of great longevity and finesse. The Fantino holdings are concentrated exclusively in the “Dardi” section of Bussia. The brothers also produce a Barbera d’Alba from these ancient vines in Dardi, and a “Rosso dei Dardi” from younger vine Nebbiolo. They are also specialists with several traditional Piemontese wines that are mostly disappearing: Nebbiolo Passito and Barolo Chinato.
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236