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2015 Laboro Disobedient
A. & G. Fantino
From their cellar in the heart of historic Monforte d’Alba, brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino exemplify low-intervention winemaking at its best, with an old-school vibe that resonates through each of their classic cuvées. The Laboro is a declassified Barolo Riserva aged in neutral old botti; Gian Natale defines it as “so typically Barolo that it’s not even a Barolo.” Deep and brawny, it is loaded with dark fruit and balsamic notes of incense, tea, and spice, finishing with a thick, chewy tannin. “This is old-fashioned Nebbiolo, the way we like it!” Gianni exclaims. This brooding beast epitomizes great Barolo from Monforte.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2015 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Nebbiolo |
Appellation: | Barolo |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Piedmont |
Producer: | A. & G. Fantino |
Winemaker: | Alessandro & Gian Natale Fantino |
Vineyard: | 60 years |
Soil: | Sandy Clay |
Aging: | A declassified Riserva, aged in large, old, oak barrels for 5 years, aged in bottle for 12 months before release |
Farming: | Sustainable |
Alcohol: | 14% |
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About The Producer
A. & G. Fantino
About The Region
Piedmont
Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.
Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.
Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.
Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.
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Where the newsletter started

Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch