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2009 Barolo Bussia “Cascina Dardi”

A. & G. Fantino

2009 Barolo Bussia “Cascina Dardi” A. & G. Fantino - Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant
I’ve talked to many passionate wine aficionados over the years about the tendency of Italian reds to have more of a bitter edginess than their French counterparts. A slight bitterness is actually often a compliment when it comes to Italian cuisine and wine—think of those little shots of espresso. I’ve highlighted this 2009 Barolo for its complete lack of bitterness—a bit of a surprise, particularly for a Barolo. In fact, in the finesse category it will give a French Burgundy a run for its money. I’ve probably consumed a case of it by now, yet I still cannot believe what the Fantino brothers accomplished with their beautiful 2009. It has to be tasted to be believed, and you will want to revisit it multiple times to make sure you weren’t dreaming. It is as sumptuous and silky a Barolo as you are ever likely to taste, while not a bit flabby or overdone. The ripe Nebbiolo fruit is generous and abundant. We have plenty of tannic, tightly wound Baroli that smell of tar and roses, and we love them all. This one stands out for its sheer balance and refinement and the immediate pleasure it offers. Don’t miss trying it on—see how it fits.

Dixon Brooke

Vintage: 2009
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Nebbiolo
Appellation: Barolo
Country: Italy
Region: Piedmont
Producer: A. & G. Fantino
Winemaker: Alessandro & Gian Natale Fantino
Vineyard: 21 years
Soil: Sandy Clay
Aging: Aged in large oak barrels for 4 years, aged in bottle for 6 months before release
Farming: Sustainable
Alcohol: 14%

More from this Producer or Region

About Piedmont

Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now nine Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.

Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.

Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.

Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.

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Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.


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