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2008 Canon-Fronsac

Château Moulin Pey-Labrie
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A few miles west of Pomerol and just above the Dordogne River on Bordeaux’s right bank lie the vineyards of Grégoire and Bénédicte Hubau. Unlike this mostly flat part of France dominated by terroirs of clay and gravel, the Hubaus’ vines are planted along limestone  slopes. When you view them from their home (“château”) at the top of the hill, you will immediately understand that this is a site for great wine. In addition to the noteworthy terroir, the Hubaus’ Château Moulin Pey-Labrie stands out for the vibrance and freshness of the wines it produces. Imagine the small, avant-garde farmers typically found in the Loire or Beaujolais transposed onto a Bordeaux landscape, and you have the Hubau family. For decades, they have been widely regarded as pioneers of progressive farming and winemaking in this often-staid region. Grégoire and Bénédicte farm the old Merlot vines that make up this cuvée on upper-slope sites rich in limestone. This perfectly middle-aged rouge abounds with beautiful aromas of strawberries and cassis along with a certain woodsiness, and it feels deep and soulful—the way old-school Bordeaux should.

Dustin Soiseth

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Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2008
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Merlot
Appellation: Canon-Fronsac
Country: France
Region: Bordeaux
Producer: Château Moulin
Winemaker: Bénédicte & Grégoire Hubau
Vineyard: 3.5 ha
Soil: Clay, limestone
Aging: One-year élevage in 2- and 3-year-old barriques
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 14%

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About The Region

Bordeaux

map of Bordeaux

Often considered the wine capital of the world, Bordeaux and its wines have captured the minds, hearts, and wallets of wine drinkers for centuries. For many, the wines provide an inalienable benchmark against which all other wines are measured.

Bordeaux is divided into three winegrowing regions with the city that gives the region its name in the near geographical center. The “right bank,” or the area located east of the Dordogne River, produces wines that are predominantly Merlot with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The “left bank” is located to the west of the Garonne River and produces wines dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

The third region, Entre-Deux-Mers, lies between both rivers and produces white wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle. Though technically in the left bank, it is worth noting the appellation of Sauternes, which produces arguably the world’s most famous sweet wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and Muscadelle as well.

Though many top Bordeaux wines are sold en primeur (in advance of their bottling) and often through a middleman known as a negoçiant, Kermit has always preferred to purchase directly from the winemaker. For more than three decades he has sought out small producers, who make classic Bordeaux wines and are willing to play outside the negoçiant system. This ethic has led to longstanding relationships, excellent prices, and perhaps most important—wines of great value and longevity.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171

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