2015 Puligny-Montrachet “Les Chalumaux”Comtesse de Chérisey
France | Burgundy
$120
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Claire Laval and Olivier Techer
Beautiful Reds from Bordeaux’s Humble “Châteaux”
by Tom Wolf
If you travel to any of the right-bank properties featured in this collection, hoping to see grand castles, you will be disappointed. “Château” features in the names of most Bordelais estates, but the more agrarian, less aristocratic “domaine” would be more helpful in understanding the work and lifestyles of the vignerons at Gombaude-Guillot, Bellevue, Belles-Graves, and Moulin/Haut-Lariveau, who for years have been on the vanguard of progressive, organic agriculture, which is still uncommon in this renowned region. They are focused, above all else, on agriculture and making Merlot-based reds that speak to their specific terroirs.
This collection features some older and some newer vintages from the families behind these four domaines across the five appellations they represent. Although all lie within a mere twenty-mile radius, each bottling diverges from the next. They range from Gombaude-Guillot’s classic, mineral, and generous Pomerol, with notes of black currant, truffle, and cocoa, to Château de Bellevue’s chiseled, restrained, age-worthy Lussac Saint-Emilion, which evokes bright, red berries and might be the value of the decade. Even the two Fronsacs from the Hubau family are entirely distinct from each other—the 2015 offering a more traditional taste of the appellation and the 2017 Piverts bottling a more raw, fun, and revolutionary expression of Fronsac! Tasting through these characterful cuvées, you will realize why vibrant, terroir-driven wines from small family domaines are just as essential—if not more—to Bordeaux’s identity as those imposing, picture-book châteaux.
Buy this collection (8 bottles)
2017 Fronsac
“Cuvée Piverts”
Château Moulin France | Bordeaux | Fronsac
Made without added sulfur, a transparent reflection of Merlot grown in the limestone and clay of Fronsac
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2015 Fronsac
Château Haut-Lariveau France | Bordeaux | Fronsac
From a boldly ripe and energetic vintage, a perfect pairing, it turns out, for smoky magret de canard
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2015 Canon-Fronsac
Château Moulin France | Bordeaux | Canon-Fronsac
You may find it to be leaner and livelier than the rich, plush Merlots of Pomerol and Saint Emilion
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2015 Lalande-de-Pomerol
Château Belles-Graves France | Bordeaux | Lalande-de-Pomerol
A generous wine dominated by ripe black fruit with very supple, approachable tannins
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2017 Pomerol “Pom ‘N’ Roll”
Château Gombaude-Guillot France | Bordeaux | Pomerol
Dress-code-not-required Bordeaux, whose velvety tannins and supple structure fit more like soft flannel and worn jeans than a stiff suit jacket and tie
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2015 Pomerol
Château Gombaude-Guillot France | Bordeaux | Pomerol
The incredible depth, power, and fine but grippingly youthful tannins are text-book Pomerol
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2011 Pomerol
Château Gombaude-Guillot France | Bordeaux | Pomerol
Rich, velvety texture and vivid fruit, suggesting blackberry and plum with an almost wild intensity.
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2015 Lussac Saint-Emilion
Château de Bellevue France | Bordeaux | Lussac Saint Émilion
Endowed with great aging potential, this red delights in its young years thanks to the pure, bright fruit and mouth-watering finale
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