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Twenty Cases of Pure Joy
Twenty Cases of Pure Joy
by Anthony Lynch by Anthony Lynch
2025 Grolleau “Franc de Pied”
2025 Grolleau “Franc de Pied”
Matthieu Baudry in his vines
Bernard Baudry, center, with his son Matthieu, right, and grandson Maxime
Domaine Bernard Baudry
The varied terroirs of Domaine Baudry
Bernard Baudry France | Loire
Vignerons can be sneaky people. Take Matthieu Baudry, who nonchalantly handed me a bottle—as if it were an afterthought—following an outstanding tasting at his family domaine near Chinon a few summers ago. He muttered something along the lines of “I do this on the side, for fun” as I stared at him inquisitively, the look on my face asking, Were you trying to hide this from me?!
The wine in question is a Grolleau produced from 15-year-old ungrafted—franc de pied— vines in a small sandy parcel on the banks of the Vienne, a tributary to the Loire that has carved out some of the finest terroirs in the great Chinon appellation. Once widely planted in its native Loire Valley, Grolleau can still be found in certain pockets, but requires the hand of a skilled vigneron to check its high-yielding nature. Matthieu ferments the Grolleau whole-cluster and ages it in tank, producing a juicy libation brimming with lively fruit marked by the silky, sensuous texture of an unfiltered bottling. Brambly berries and lifted floral notes combine with an earthy coolness and touch of spice in this red whose low alcohol level makes it even easier to fervently slurp down.
While it does not carry the heft or nuance of Matthieu’s Chinon bottlings, this cuvée—served chilled, of course—has an irresistible, easygoing nature that makes it totally quaffable. He was able to spare twenty cases of his “afterthought,” and we are thrilled to carry it.
Matthieu Baudry in his vines
Bernard Baudry, center, with his son Matthieu, right, and grandson Maxime
Domaine Bernard Baudry
The varied terroirs of Domaine Baudry
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2025 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Grolleau |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Bernard Baudry |
| Winemaker: | Matthieu Baudry |
| Vineyard: | Vines planted in 2011 |
| Soil: | Sand, yellow limestone |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 11.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2024 Chinon “Les Granges”
France | Loire
Les Granges is the Baudry cuvée to drink in its youth, while the perfume of rose petals and brambly berries is at its most vivid and vibrant.
2021 Saumur Champigny “Outre Terre”
France | Loire
Outre Terre is a tiny production of Cabernet Franc fermented in amphora and aged in barrel.
2023 Chinon “Le Domaine”
France | Loire
It’s a textbook Chinon, and you’ll struggle to find a red as authentic and perfectly suited to your fall table.
2021 Saumur Champigny “La Marginale”
France | Loire
With incredibly pristine, vivid fruit along with a deep, rich structure and silky-fine tannins, here is a grand example of the heights biodynamic wines can achieve.
2025 Chinon “Le Rosé”
France | Loire
Matthieu Baudry captures both youthful fruit and energizing mineral textures with this rosé.
2022 Chinon “Le Clos Guillot”
France | Loire
With a glance at the dark purple color—the hue of a Kalamata olive—and a sniff of the nose heavy on dark ripe fruit and black tea, I get a little giddy. I can tell I’m going to enjoy this.
2023 Chinon “Les Grézeaux”
France | Loire
Les Grézeaux comes from the Baudry’s oldest vines, which yield a concentrated and silky rouge that is ready to drink today but will age beautifully.
2023 Chinon Blanc
France | Loire
A rare Chenin Blanc from the land of Cabernet Franc, it is ultra fresh and brimming with citrus blossom and orchard fruit notes.
2023 Chinon “Cuvée Terroir”
France | Loire
The perfect combination of tart red fruit, herbaceousness, and graphite earthiness.
2021 Chinon “La Croix Boissée”
France | Loire
This is the grandest bottling of Cabernet Franc from one of Chinon’s most outstanding producers.
About The Producer
Bernard Baudry
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
More from Loire or France
2025 Sancerre Rosé
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2024 Cheverny
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2023 Saumur Champigny “Terres Chaudes”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2025 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
Éric Chevalier France | Loire
2023 Vouvray Sec “Le Portail”
Champalou France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2022 Bourgueil “Clos Sénéchal”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Coteaux du Loir Rouge “Cuvée du Rosier”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2020 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint Sauveur France | Loire
2025 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2025 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”
Régis Minet France | Loire
2025 Sancerre Rosé
Domaine Roger Neveu France | Loire
2024 Cheverny
Domaine du Salvard France | Loire
Vouvray Brut “La Dilettante”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2023 Saumur Champigny “Terres Chaudes”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2025 Muscadet Côtes de Grand Lieu sur lie “La Nöe”
Éric Chevalier France | Loire
2023 Vouvray Sec “Le Portail”
Champalou France | Loire
2024 Bourgueil “Cuvée Alouettes”
Domaine de la Chanteleuserie France | Loire
2022 Bourgueil “Clos Sénéchal”
Catherine & Pierre Breton France | Loire
2025 Coteaux du Loir Rouge “Cuvée du Rosier”
Pascal Janvier France | Loire
2020 Vin de France Rouge Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Clandestine”
Grange Saint Sauveur France | Loire
2025 Saumur Champigny “Cuvée Domaine”
Thierry Germain France | Loire
2025 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”
Régis Minet France | Loire
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171