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The Diversity of Loire Sauvignon Blanc

The Diversity of Loire Sauvignon Blanc

by Dustin Soiseth by Dustin Soiseth

2024 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”

2024 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”

Régis Minet   

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Régis Minet    France   |  Loire   |  Pouilly Fumé

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While Lucia Mineur-Billet pulled samples from a stainless steel tank and led us through the ins and outs of vinification, her stepfather, Régis Minet, quietly moved through our small group, gifting us fossils he’d found in and around the vineyards. Though the domaine still bears Régis’s name, Lucia is in charge now. Driven by a desire to create, she left a successful career in wine sales to earn a degree in viticulture and take over the family estate. From sixteen different parcels representing the appellation’s diverse terroirs—Kimmeridgian marl, calcaires de Villiers, and terres blanches, to name but a few—Lucia crafts the archetypal Pouilly-Fumé. Fermenting each parcel individually gives her room to respond to every vintage’s unique characteristics while preserving, in her words, “the historical identity of the estate’s wines.” Kermit described Régis’s Pouilly-Fumé as having “class and exquisite harmony”; after I tasted Lucia’s recent vintages, my notes are filled with similar descriptions. The wine has a distinct elegance. The classic Sauvignon Blanc characteristics are present, but understated—floral notes, subtle citrus, a cool grassiness—and there’s a chalkiness so textural you can feel it as you taste. The overall impression is not of brash, over-the-top flavors, but of poise and refinement.

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About The Region

Loire

map of Loire

The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?

Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.

Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.

Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171

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