From the exceedingly fine and elegant nose to the creamy and lacy texture, the overall balance and touch, and its hint of salty freshness, this wine shows how understated, finessed, and downright glorious dry Pinot Gris can be in Alsace.

This wine shows how understated, finessed, and downright glorious dry Pinot Gris can be in Alsace.

Meyer’s Riesling Réserve is a mélange of different terroirs around his domaine in Katzenthal, and is a precise, dry, minerally Riesling loaded with character.

That grapes can be cajoled and fashioned to make such a liquid is miraculous.

Powerhouse intensity, concentration, kaleidoscopic flavor, unique terroir: in short, one of the great Riesling terroirs in all of northern Europe.

If you don’t recognize Félix Meyer’s touch from the rich aromas of lychee, candied ginger, and rose petals, you will by the time you finish your first glass.

The small, sunny Mandelberg cru is already a classic through and through—petrol notes with lush pear, honey, and a tart bite of green apple.

That grapes can be cajoled and fashioned to make such a liquid is miraculous. This aroma is beyond belief.

Meyer-Fonné’s 2022 has a floral, perfumed nose—perhaps from a splash of Muscat?—and a soft mid-palate with green apple and pear—surely a sign of Pinot Blanc in there.

Félix Meyer’s old-vine Pinot Blanc from the slopes of Katzenthal, in Alsace, has long overdelivered in the role of the proverbial “crisp white” for which we long.