A common scenario plays out again and again in wine shops around the country. An affordable wine seemingly comes out of nowhere, wowing wine lovers with its deliciousness and value. Customers can’t get enough, and it soon sells out. But when the eagerly anticipated next vintage arrives, something is off. Maybe it’s just the variability of the vintage, or maybe the producer cut corners to make more wine. Whatever the reason, though, the magic is gone.
     A more uncommon scenario is when, after a spectacular debut, the next vintage is just as good, as is the one after that, and the one after that. That’s the case with this unassuming Verdicchio from the Marche. The 2014 vintage arrived with a bang, and the wine has been a customer (and staff) favorite ever since. It’s sourced from vineyards planted on hillsides that face east into the cooling breezes of the Adriatic Sea, which offer protection from the summer heat. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel, and aging is brief to preserve freshness. The nose on the 2023 has hints of peach and pear. In the glass, soft fruit up front precedes a crisp, pleasantly grassy finish with a kiss of acidity. Remarkably refreshing and delicious, it produces a spark, an ineffable element that says, “Something special is happening here.” I’m not sure what the secret is, but I suspect it’s magic.