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2023 Ardèche Syrah “Syrah Mauve”
Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne
Of all the Northern Rhône producers we work with today, Domaine Marsanne was the first whose wines Kermit imported, back in the early 1980s. “My first taste of [the domaine’s] wine,” he wrote in the February 1982 newsletter, “was in Burgundy when Aubert de Villaine served the 1977 at lunch in Bouzeron.” After a brief period of importing the family’s Saint Josephs and Crozes-Hermitages, the family prioritized its small production for local clientele and Kermit went on to find other vignerons around the region’s sleepy villages who would ultimately help turn such appellations as Cornas, Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, and Saint-Joseph into the revered sources of Syrah they are today.
Then, a few years ago, Kermit recognized the Marsanne name on a wine list in Paris and, remembering his relationship with the family decades before, ordered a bottle. Providing great pleasure and typicity of its northern Rhône terroir, the bottle was enough to inspire renewed contact with the current generation of Marsannes, Jean-Claude and his two daughters, who produce not only exquisite Saint-Josephs but also an inviting and exuberant Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah from two granitic lieux-dits, Les Chalaix and Pout, planted in 2016. Whereas Marsanne’s Saint-Josephs and even the Crozes-Hermitage possess dark-fruited depth, this cuvée is all about the charms, deliciousness, and fun of young-vine Syrah. These aren’t qualities you might often associate or get to experience from the grape variety, but this bottling will no doubt change that.
—Chris Santini
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Syrah |
| Appellation: | IGP Ardèche |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Northern Rhône |
| Producer: | Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne |
| Winemaker: | Jean-Claude Marsanne |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 2016, .77 ha |
| Soil: | Granite |
| Aging: | Fermented in stainless steel tanks for 4 weeks without SO2. Aged in stainless steel tanks for 11 months |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 12.5% |
More from this Producer or Region
2023 Saint-Joseph Rouge
France | Northern Rhône
The kind of Saint-Jo to dig into right away: smoky, layered, lush, and laced with violet, bay leaf, and black olive.
2023 Saint Joseph Rouge “Les Ribaudes”
France | Northern Rhône
A testament to Lionel’s house style, Les Ribaudes is vibrant and juicy with a hint of peppery spice, and earthy minerality imprinted by its granite terroir. Old-school Saint-Joseph at its finest.
2023 Collines Rhodaniennes Viognier “Les Ruisseaux”
France | Northern Rhône
Amid the lush fruit runs a delicate current of minerality that lingers on the tongue, as if the wine cascaded down a granite slope on its way into your glass.
2022 Saint-Joseph “Les Grisières”
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Yearning for northern Rhône magic? Here you go. Pull a cork or more and see what I mean.
2022 Côte-Rôtie “La Boisselée”
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Made from six vineyards that, when blended, showcase the whole of the Côte Rôtie appellation.
2023 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge
France | Northern Rhône
This small parcel has a fruit-forward, approachable style, yet with intense spice and licorice in there as well, perhaps from the deep-rooted old Syrah vines.
2021 Saint-Joseph Blanc
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Like eating lemon curd at a party that Renoir might have painted—think something like Dance at Le Moulin de la Galette.
2020 Saint-Joseph Rouge
France | Northern Rhône
The kind of Saint-Jo to dig into right away: smoky, layered, lush, and laced with violet, bay leaf, and black olive.
2021 Cornas “Renaissance”
France | Northern Rhône
Young vines yield a Cornas that opens up sooner than Clape's flagship cuvée.
2021 Côtes du Vivarais Rouge
France | Northern Rhône
Aromas of black pepper, briny black olive, and violets with the earthiness, herbs, and concentration of southern Rhône Grenache.
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About The Producer
Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne
The Marsanne family, as their name attests, has a long and deep-rooted history in the northern Rhône, in particular around Mauves, the birthplace of the Saint-Joseph appellation. In 1920, current owner Jean-Claude’s grandfather, Jean-Pierre, became the first in the family to focus solely on vineyards—no easy task given the impossibly steep slopes of Mauves, where everything must be worked by hand and pickaxe. Jean-Pierre started with just a few small parcels, selling off his crop to prestigious négociants, and was quickly renowned throughout the region for the exceptional quality of his grapes. His untimely passing in 1950 forced his son, Jean, to quit school at age 16 to take over the domaine. He continued his father’s work in earnest, his vineyards often being recognized amongst the village’s best, not just for their exposition and soil, but also for the attention to detail young Jean paid to each vine. The grape sales financed some small land purchases in and around Mauves, and the domaine slowly grew to 3 hectares. In 1970, Jean made the leap to begin making and bottling the wines himself. Over time, a small, but loyal following developed, especially among France’s fine dining establishments, which valued the finesse and elegance of Marsanne’s cuvées. The domaine remained largely unknown on the international scene, overlooked by many journalists and clients who sought out bolder, more extracted styles.
Since taking over from Jean in 1991, Jean-Claude has continued to add select new parcels, growing the domaine to 9.6 hectares. While still mostly focused on Syrah from the hallowed terroir of Mauves, he now farms a few small plots of Marsanne for his Saint-Joseph blanc, as well as some Viognier and Syrah in the Ardèche hills west of the village. He also inherited a superb plot of Crozes-Hermitage that once belonged to his grandmother.
Kermit came across Jean Marsanne during his early adventures in France in the 1970s, and was struck by the wines’ aromatic complexity and Jean’s meticulous care for the vineyards. He even managed to import a few bottles in those early days. Kermit and the Marsannes lost touch and life went on, until decades later when Kermit spotted a familiar label while dining out in Paris. The bottle was ordered, uncorked, and an old collaboration was renewed.
Jean-Claude holds tightly to the traditions of his family. These include farming the steepest parcels by hand, as was done by his grandfather; using indigenous yeasts for slow, natural fermentations, like his father taught him; and aging his wines extensively on fine lees, releasing each cuvée at its most expressive moment. The reunion with Marsanne is one of great pride on both sides.
More from Northern Rhône or France
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2021 Côte-Rôtie
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2023 Saint-Joseph Rouge “Châtelet”
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2021 Côtes du Vivarais Rouge
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2022 Cornas
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2022 Saint Joseph Rouge “La Gloriette Vieilles Vignes”
Lionel Faury France | Northern Rhône
2022 Côte-Rôtie
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2024 Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah “Les Hautes Ribaudes”
Lionel Faury France | Northern Rhône
2023 Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah “l’Art Zélé”
Lionel Faury France | Northern Rhône
2021 Côte-Rôtie “Besset”
Barruol / Lynch France | Northern Rhône
2023 Saint-Joseph Rouge “Terre Blanche”
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2022 Crozes Hermitage “Tiercerolles”
Barruol / Lynch France | Northern Rhône
2023 Condrieu
André Perret France | Northern Rhône
2021 Côte-Rôtie
Domaine Jamet France | Northern Rhône
2023 Saint-Joseph Rouge “Châtelet”
Domaine Monier Perréol France | Northern Rhône
2021 Côtes du Vivarais Rouge
Domaine Gallety France | Northern Rhône
2022 Cornas
Domaine Clape France | Northern Rhône
2022 Saint Joseph Rouge “La Gloriette Vieilles Vignes”
Lionel Faury France | Northern Rhône
2022 Côte-Rôtie
Domaine Jamet France | Northern Rhône
2024 Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah “Les Hautes Ribaudes”
Lionel Faury France | Northern Rhône
2023 Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah “l’Art Zélé”
Lionel Faury France | Northern Rhône
2021 Côte-Rôtie “Besset”
Barruol / Lynch France | Northern Rhône
2023 Saint-Joseph Rouge “Terre Blanche”
Domaine Monier Perréol France | Northern Rhône
2022 Crozes Hermitage “Tiercerolles”
Barruol / Lynch France | Northern Rhône
Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
A good doctor prescribed the wine of Nuits-Saint-Georges to the Sun King, Louis XIV, when he suffered an unknown maladie. When the king’s health was restored the tasty remedy enjoyed a vogue at court. Lord, send me a doctor like that!
Inspiring Thirst, page 117