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2023 Dolcetto d’Alba “V. Pari”
Guido Porro
There are few clearer signs of an old-school Piemontese vignaiolo than his or her use of prized land not just for Nebbiolo but also for the region’s other traditional grape varieties like Dolcetto and Barbera. Guido Porro, for instance, farms all three within Barolo’s famed Lazzarito cru, a gorgeous amphitheater that stretches down from his winery in the village of Serralunga d’Alba.
When you stand on his deck, overlooking dramatic hillside vineyards, you can’t help but do a double take when Guido points out the Dolcetto vines whose grapes go into this bottling. There they are, at the top of the slope, peering down on acres upon acres of Nebbiolo destined for world-class Barolo. In such a prime position, the vines benefit from abundant and direct sunshine. Add to this the limestone-rich soils in which they’re planted and the warmer climate around Serralunga d’Alba, and it’s no surprise why this rosso shows a little more structure and heft than you find in Dolcetti from other parts of the Langhe. Evoking blackberries, earth, and stones, this red offers a great match for mushroom risotto or your favorite stew.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Dolcetto |
Appellation: | Dolcetto d’Alba |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Piedmont |
Producer: | Guido Porro |
Vineyard: | 30 years, 1 ha |
Soil: | Clay, Limestone |
Farming: | Sustainable |
Alcohol: | 14% |
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About The Producer
Guido Porro
About The Region
Piedmont
Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.
Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.
Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.
Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.
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Where the newsletter started

Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch