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2023 Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure”
Cantina Favaro
Cantina Favaro’s “Le Chiusure” was my wine revelation of 2024 and I spent every opportunity last year, both in public and in private, proselytizing for it. Hailing from the base of the Italian Alps, Erbaluce achieves a balance, vitality, and texture that you find only in that country’s greatest white wines, and it proves that Piemonte, long known for its world-class red wines, is also capable of producing gorgeous whites. With its chiseled, cool-climate frame and notes of mouthwatering citrus and generous orchard fruit, it is perfect for seafood, but also pretty much any white-wine-friendly dish.
—Tom Wolf
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2023 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Erbaluce |
| Appellation: | Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Piedmont |
| Producer: | Cantina Favaro |
| Winemaker: | Benito, Camillo, and Nicola Favaro |
| Vineyard: | Planted in 1992, 2001, 2009; 2.1 ha |
| Soil: | Morainic clay, sand |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 13% |
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Camillo Favaro
About The Producer
Cantina Favaro
Benito Favaro and his sons, Camillo and Nicola, are masters of Erbaluce, one of the most traditional white wines native to Piemonte. In fact, the DOC for Erbaluce di Caluso was the first white wine to receive that status in the region in 1967. The Favaro family are true garagistes. In the northern reaches of Piemonte, at the foot of the Alps, they craft their wines under their home in a subterranean cellar just next to their vineyards. They work organically in the vines, and all their efforts support coaxing the maximum expression of their land out of the wine. Their expression of Erbaluce is a benchmark for the appellation, and these white wines are capable of aging beautifully. The tiny bit of Nebbiolo and Freisa produced here are also extremely special wines, as elegant and aromatic as anything made elsewhere in Piemonte.
About The Region
Piedmont
Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.
Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.
Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.
Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch
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