Our “Must Try” White Wine of 2024
Our “Must Try” White Wine of 2024
by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf
A Featured Selection from the “In Case You Missed It” Collection A Featured Selection from the “In Case You Missed It” Collection
2023 Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure”
2023 Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure”
Cantina Favaro Italy | Piedmont | Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG
For many months last year, I lived with regret—regret that I did not buy more of Cantina Favaro’s stunning Erbaluce di Caluso “Le Chiusure” when it was briefly in stock. Because it’s made from an obscure grape, from a remote corner of northernmost Italy, I assumed that I could pick up a bottle at my leisure. But, not long after it arrived in Berkeley, I walked into 1605 San Pablo Avenue to stock up and, to my surprise, it was already all gone!
It shouldn’t have been too surprising. Despite its relative obscurity, Favaro’s Erbaluce is one of those bottles that makes you do a double take, sit up straight, and lose your words before regaining them to thank the Wine Gods. Tasting it early last year—and again today—I can’t help but think, was this how Kermit felt discovering transcendent Chablis in the 1970s? This Erbaluce is not Chablis, but they share so many alluring traits: a chiseled, cool-climate frame, a tension between bracing citrus and orchard fruit, and an irresistibly chalky note that begs for a pairing of fresh seafood, whether a baked filet of your favorite fish, a bone-warming stew like cioppino or bouillabaisse, or a spaghetti alle vongole.
At first, I hesitated to broadcast this shipment of the new vintage, for selfish reasons, I admit. But I am willing to make the sacrifice, because Favaro’s wines deserve to be better known. Don’t wait too long lest you find, as I did, this wine will be gone before we know it!
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Erbaluce |
Appellation: | Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Piedmont |
Producer: | Cantina Favaro |
Winemaker: | Benito, Camillo, and Nicola Favaro |
Vineyard: | Planted in 1992, 2001, 2009; 2.1 ha |
Soil: | Morainic clay, sand |
Farming: | Organic (certified) |
Alcohol: | 13% |