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2023 Pays d’Oc Cabernet Sauvignon “Les Traverses”

Château Fontanès
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This delicious country red might be the unlikeliest success story of southern France. Two decades ago, Cyriaque Rozier, vigneron of Château La Roque in Pic Saint Loup, was so inspired by a nearby plot of Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted in 1970 that he purchased it and, as a side project, started making wine under his own label. He wasn’t interested in fashioning some grand expression of the grape in the vein of Bordeaux, but rather a pure and joyous rouge that would exist happily on any table.
     I can’t think of anywhere else I’ve tasted this unique combination of grape, terroir, and farming: Cabernet’s classic notes of plum and currant bear a trace of southern French garrigue, and it’s all carried on a fresh and graceful frame, thanks to Cyriaque’s biodynamic farming and vinification in stainless steel cuves to retain as much freshness and purity of fruit as possible. This beautiful rouge is at once savory, soulful, and elegant, representing as perfect a candidate for your summer cooler or ice bucket as your favorite juicy reds from the Beaujolais or Loire. 

Tom Wolf

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Technical Information
Wine Type: red
Vintage: 2023
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: Cabernet Sauvignon
Appellation: Vin de Pays d’Oc
Country: France
Region: Languedoc-Roussillon
Producer: Château Fontanès
Winemaker: Cyriaque Rozier
Vineyard: Planted in 1970, 5 ha
Soil: Clay, Limestone, Marl
Farming: Organic (practicing)
Alcohol: 14.2%

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About The Region

Languedoc-Roussillon

map of Languedoc-Roussillon

Ask wine drinkers around the world, and the word “Languedoc” is sure to elicit mixed reactions. On the one hand, the region is still strongly tied to its past as a producer of cheap, insipid bulk wine in the eyes of many consumers. On the other hand, it is the source of countless great values providing affordable everyday pleasure, with an increasing number of higher-end wines capable of rivaling the best from other parts of France.

While there’s no denying the Languedoc’s checkered history, the last two decades have seen a noticeable shift to fine wine, with an emphasis on terroir. Ambitious growers have sought out vineyard sites with poor, well draining soils in hilly zones, curbed back on irrigation and the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, and looked to balance traditional production methods with technological advancements to craft wines with elegance, balance, and a clear sense of place. Today, the overall quality and variety of wines being made in the Languedoc is as high as ever.

Shaped like a crescent hugging the Mediterranean coast, the region boasts an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates depending on elevation, exposition, and relative distance from the coastline and the cooler foothills farther inland. While the warm Mediterranean climate is conducive to the production of reds, there are world-class whites and rosés to be found as well, along with stunning dessert wines revered by connoisseurs for centuries.

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Inspiring Thirst

I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.

Inspiring Thirst, page 171

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