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A Graduate of the Chablis School of Chardonnay

A Graduate of the Chablis School of Chardonnay

by Tom Wolf by Tom Wolf

2023 Chardonnay

2023 Chardonnay

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France   |  Loire   |  Vin de Pays du Val de Loire

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If there existed a “Chablis School of Chardonnay,” Loire Valley vigneron Eric Chevalier would have graduated top of his class. His affinity for Chablisien Chardonnay is not surprising—after all, he is a Nantais native and Muscadet specialist, so chiseled and saline white wine practically courses through his veins. But he also spent some formative time in the 1990s in Burgundy’s northern outpost, having helped make his first wines as an apprentice there, so when he returned to his corner of the western Loire Valley, he brought some of that Chablisien spirit back to his Chardonnay vines in the Pays Nantais.
     This is not, of course, to say that Eric makes Chablis. His expression is entirely unique: almost a mix of Chardonnay and Muscadet’s most alluring qualities, with its blend of orchard fruit, lemon and line notes, stones, and a whisper of brine. But what makes Eric’s approach so Chablisien is that, in his hands, Chardonnay is merely a medium for his unique terroir. In other words, this wine is much more about the Pays Nantais’s maritime air and soil than any specific flavors and characteristics widely associated with the grape.
     I think this is why, on more than one occasion, someone has told me, “I usually don’t like Chardonnay, but I really enjoy this.” Of course, Eric’s rendition also inspires those, like me, who love Chardonnay to enjoy it more often, too. It’s incredibly pure, delicious, and a sip feels like an invigorating plunge in the cold, nearby Atlantic.

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About The Region

Loire

map of Loire

The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?

Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.

Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.

Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.

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Vintage illustration of men rolling barrels.

We only import wine we drink and enjoy ourselves, directly from the source.

Our wine tastes the same in your home as it did where it was bottled in Europe.

Like the long-term relationships we build with growers, we build long-term relationships with our clients. Have a question? Need wine advice? Just give us a call—510-524-1524.

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