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The Diversity of Loire Sauvignon Blanc
The Diversity of Loire Sauvignon Blanc
by Dustin Soiseth by Dustin Soiseth
2024 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”
2024 Pouilly-Fumé “Vieilles Vignes”
Régis and Lucia
Régis in their vines
A fossil found in the vineyards
More than forty-year-old Pouilly Fumé
Régis Minet France | Loire | Pouilly Fumé
While Lucia Mineur-Billet pulled samples from a stainless steel tank and led us through the ins and outs of vinification, her stepfather, Régis Minet, quietly moved through our small group, gifting us fossils he’d found in and around the vineyards. Though the domaine still bears Régis’s name, Lucia is in charge now. Driven by a desire to create, she left a successful career in wine sales to earn a degree in viticulture and take over the family estate. From sixteen different parcels representing the appellation’s diverse terroirs—Kimmeridgian marl, calcaires de Villiers, and terres blanches, to name but a few—Lucia crafts the archetypal Pouilly-Fumé. Fermenting each parcel individually gives her room to respond to every vintage’s unique characteristics while preserving, in her words, “the historical identity of the estate’s wines.” Kermit described Régis’s Pouilly-Fumé as having “class and exquisite harmony”; after I tasted Lucia’s recent vintages, my notes are filled with similar descriptions. The wine has a distinct elegance. The classic Sauvignon Blanc characteristics are present, but understated—floral notes, subtle citrus, a cool grassiness—and there’s a chalkiness so textural you can feel it as you taste. The overall impression is not of brash, over-the-top flavors, but of poise and refinement.
Régis and Lucia
Régis in their vines
A fossil found in the vineyards
More than forty-year-old Pouilly Fumé
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2024 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
| Appellation: | Pouilly Fumé |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Régis Minet |
| Winemaker: | Régis Minet |
| Vineyard: | 25 - 30 years, 10 ha |
| Soil: | Clay, Marl, Kimmeridgian Limestone |
| Aging: | Wine ages for 6 months on fine lees in stainless steel. Depending on the vintage, the lees are stirred two to three times during this time |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 12.5% |
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About The Producer
Régis Minet
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch