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2023 Dolcetto d’Alba “La Costa”
Piero Benevelli
Kermit once said, “I drink about two dozen Dolcetto to one bottle of Barolo.” That was in 1986, but the statement holds true today, almost forty years later! Call it genetics, but I’m in the same boat. For one, Dolcetto is much cheaper; the price of certain Barolos on the market could buy you a case. Second, Dolcetto is simply more delicious. Barolo may draw oohs and aahs, make your hair stand on end, or even silence your dinner table, but when a Dolcetto is opened, you’re bound to hear plenty of clinking glasses, boisterous chatter, and inevitably the sound of more corks being pulled.
It is in this spirit that I give the highest recommendation to this Dolcetto d’Alba. At the head of his family’s small azienda, Massimo Benevelli specializes in making honest wines that reflect the rolling hills around Monforte d’Alba. The 2023 edition features a delightful aroma recalling violets, juicy little berries, and a touch of black licorice. It rolls over the palate effortlessly, with a smooth texture and buoyant grapey notes. Hold your Barolos for later; given its excellent value and utter tastiness, we couldn’t blame you for going through Massimo’s Dolcetto by the case.
—Anthony Lynch
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2023 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Dolcetto |
Appellation: | Dolcetto d’Alba |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Piedmont |
Producer: | Benevelli Piero |
Winemaker: | Massimo Benevelli |
Vineyard: | Planted in 1986, 3 ha |
Soil: | Limestone, grey and white marl |
Aging: | Aged 3 months in bottle before release |
Farming: | Traditional |
Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Benevelli Piero
About The Region
Piedmont
Kermit’s love affair with the great reds of Piemonte dates back to the early days of his career: the very first container he imported from Italy, in fact, featured legendary 1971 and 1974 Barolos from Vietti and Aldo Conterno. Regular visits since then have seen our portfolio grow to now twelve Piemontesi estates, with a strong focus on the rolling hills of the Langhe.
Nebbiolo rules these majestic, vine-covered marl slopes, giving Italy’s most mystifyingly complex, nuanced, and age-worthy reds. When crafted via traditional production methods—long macerations and extensive aging in enormous oak botti—the powerful, yet incredibly refined Barolos and Barbarescos provide haunting aromatics of tar, raspberry, incense, tea, roses, and more. At times austere in their youth but well worth the wait, they pair beautifully with the hearty local cuisine starring veal in many forms, braised beef, pastas like tajarin and agnolotti, and of course, Alba’s famous white truffles.
Surrounded by mountains on three sides, Piemonte’s climate is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. Nebbiolo is only part of the story here: juicy, fruity Barberas and Dolcettos represent the bread and butter throughout the region, and other native grapes like Freisa, Croatina, and the white Arneis are also noteworthy. Value abounds in the Monferrato, while Alto Piemonte also has its share of thrills to provide.
Every corner of Piemonte is rich with tradition, especially when wine is concerned. It’s no wonder we have been singing the region’s praises for over forty years.
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Kermit once said...

Kermit once said...
When buying red Burgundy, I think we should remember:
1. Big wines do not age better than light wine.
2. A so-called great vintage at the outset does not guarantee a great vintage for the duration.
3. A so-called off vintage at the outset does not mean the wines do not have a brilliant future ahead of them.
4. Red Burgundy should not taste like Guigal Côte-Rôtie, even if most wine writers wish it would.
5. Don’t follow leaders; watch yer parking meters.
Inspiring Thirst, page 174