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2022 Quincy “Château de Quincy”
Domaine Trotereau
Visiting Château de Quincy with colleagues last spring, I don’t recall what I expected, but I was delighted by what I found: a castle on sprawling grounds, a stone tower overlooking courtyard gardens, roses vining up the walls…It was perhaps our most idyllic, fairy-tale-like stop along the Loire wine route. Despite the potential for pomp, longtime Trotereau winemaker Pierre Ragon and his successor, Augustin Ponroy, are unassuming and down-to-earth—the mixed-generation duo chatted about rebuilding an old car together. In the estate’s humble cellar, they make this decidedly old-school take on Quincy—luscious and textural with notes of elderflower and lychee. It defies what’s expected of Sauvignon Blanc.
—Madison H. Brown
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2022 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
| Appellation: | Quincy |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Loire |
| Producer: | Domaine Trotereau |
| Winemaker: | Augustin Ponroy |
| Soil: | Sand, silex, pink limestone |
| Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
| Alcohol: | 13.5% |
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About The Producer
Domaine Trotereau
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmeridgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch