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2022 Custoza “Greoto”

Corte Gardoni
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On a freezing-cold afternoon in New York, I opened Corte Gardoni’s Custoza and had a thought about wintertime whites. Greoto, a blend of several local Venetian varieties, is not a bracing wine. Instead, it has a grapey quality, with summer fruits such as white strawberry and peach. Like a glimmer of sunshine on a gray day, it relieved the chill in my bones and left me charmed. A more high-toned or racy white would not have compared for such icy weather. As the days went on, every glass I enjoyed got better and better—a touch of honey here, a glimpse of bitter almond there. I’ll be keeping this bianco in rotation all season. 

Jane Augustine

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Technical Information
Wine Type: white
Vintage: 2022
Bottle Size: 750mL
Blend: 40% Garganega, 25% Trebbiano, 10% Trebbianello, 10% Cortese, 15% Other
Appellation: Bianco di Custoza
Country: Italy
Region: Veneto
Producer: Corte Gardoni
Winemaker: Piccoli Family
Soil: Moraine
Aging: Several months of aging in stainless steel before bottling
Farming: Sustainable
Alcohol: 12.5%

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About The Region

Veneto

map of Veneto

Italy’s most prolific wine region by volume, the Veneto is the source of some of the country’s most notorious plonk: you’ll find oceans of insipid Pinot Grigo, thin Bardolino, and, of course, the ubiquitous Prosecco. And yet, the Veneto produces the highest proportion of DOC wine of any Italian region: home to prestigious appellations like Valpolicella, Amarone, and Soave, it is capable of excelling in all three colors, with equally great potential in the bubbly and dessert departments.

With almost 200,000 acres planted, the Veneto has a wealth of terroirs split between the Po Valley and the foothills of the Alps. While the rich soils of the flatlands are conducive to mechanization, high yields, and mass production of bulk wine, the areas to the north offer a fresher climate and a diversity of poor soil types, ideal for food-friendly wines that show a sense of place. Whether it’s a charming Prosecco Superiore from the Glera grape, a stony Soave or Gambellara from Garganega, or a Corvina-based red in any style, the Veneto’s indigenous grape varieties show real character when worked via traditional production methods.

Since his first visit in 1979, Kermit has regularly returned to the Veneto to enjoy its richness of fine wines and local cuisine. Our collaboration with Corte Gardoni, our longest-running Italian import, is a testament to this. The proximity of beautiful cities like Verona and Venice, with their deep culinary heritage, certainly doesn’t hurt, either.

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Old wine bottles

Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.

Inspiring Thirst, page 236

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