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2022 Bardolino Chiaretto Rosé “Nichesole”
Corte GardoniIt’s aperitivo hour and you’re sitting under the shade of a tree on the eastern bank of Lake Garda, looking out onto dozens of sailboats gliding along, seemingly in no hurry to be anywhere. Someone offers you a spritz, but no, grazie—you’re more in the mood for a glass of exquisite rosé. They come back with a frosty carafe of a pale pink nectar. You pour yourself a glass, take a sip, and ask, “Where’s this from?” You’re surprised to hear the reply: “Just down the road.” This region may not bear the renown of Tuscany, Piedmont, and Sicily, but if it is famous for anything—other than the vistas—it is for the dry rosé called Chiaretto.
This one comes from the Piccolis, who have owned vineyards in these parts for more than four centuries. The family’s experience and the underrated excellence of this terroir of glacial moraine—south of the lake and at the western limit of the Veneto region—explain why this bottle offers such outstanding character and class. With notes of white peach, melon, and grapefruit, this Chiaretto is the quintessential Italian rosato for a summer evening al fresco with a heaping plate of fresh, sauce-laden pasta.
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | Rosé |
Vintage: | 2022 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | 50% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 25% Molinara, Barbera & Sangiovese |
Appellation: | Bardolino Chiaretto |
Country: | Italy |
Region: | Veneto |
Producer: | Corte Gardoni |
Winemaker: | Piccoli Family |
Vineyard: | 5 - 40 years, 40 ha |
Soil: | Moraine |
Aging: | Several months of aging in stainless steel before bottling |
Farming: | Sustainable |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
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About The Producer
Corte Gardoni
Gianni Piccoli grew up surrounded by orchards, but he had wine in his blood so when an estate with extensive vineyards came up for sale in 1971 he jumped at the opportunity. For years the grapes of Corte Gardoni were sold to cooperatives, but Gianni felt that their wines lacked soul. In 1980 he broke those ties and began crafting his own wine, focusing on the character of the grapes and terroir. Gianni passed away in 2020 with nearly fifty vintages under his belt at the helm of Corte Gardoni. In the process, he became a local hero and proud ambassador of Bardolino and its terroir, setting the stage for a new generation to follow in his path creating humble, delicious wines from native grapes that speak to the region and its traditions. Corte Gardoni remains in capable hands today, as Gianni's three sons had already taken over daily operations at the winery several years before his passing. Mattia is in charge of the cellar, Stefano manages the vineyards, and Andrea helps both of his brothers and also handles the commercialization of the wines.
About The Region
Veneto
Italy’s most prolific wine region by volume, the Veneto is the source of some of the country’s most notorious plonk: you’ll find oceans of insipid Pinot Grigo, thin Bardolino, and, of course, the ubiquitous Prosecco. And yet, the Veneto produces the highest proportion of DOC wine of any Italian region: home to prestigious appellations like Valpolicella, Amarone, and Soave, it is capable of excelling in all three colors, with equally great potential in the bubbly and dessert departments.
With almost 200,000 acres planted, the Veneto has a wealth of terroirs split between the Po Valley and the foothills of the Alps. While the rich soils of the flatlands are conducive to mechanization, high yields, and mass production of bulk wine, the areas to the north offer a fresher climate and a diversity of poor soil types, ideal for food-friendly wines that show a sense of place. Whether it’s a charming Prosecco Superiore from the Glera grape, a stony Soave or Gambellara from Garganega, or a Corvina-based red in any style, the Veneto’s indigenous grape varieties show real character when worked via traditional production methods.
Since his first visit in 1979, Kermit has regularly returned to the Veneto to enjoy its richness of fine wines and local cuisine. Our collaboration with Corte Gardoni, our longest-running Italian import, is a testament to this. The proximity of beautiful cities like Verona and Venice, with their deep culinary heritage, certainly doesn’t hurt, either.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch