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2022 Bandol Rouge
Domaine du Gros ’Noré
I hesitate to call any of Alain’s reds “rustic,” as he has worked hard over the years to shake this image. His red is polished and pedigreed, but remains au naturel somehow: uninhibited, unfussy, and raw.
—Jane Augustine
| Wine Type: | red |
| Vintage: | 2022 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | 80% Mourvèdre, 15% Grenache, 5% Cinsault |
| Appellation: | Bandol |
| Country: | France |
| Region: | Provence |
| Producer: | Domaine du Gros ‘Noré |
| Winemaker: | Alain Pascal |
| Vineyard: | 30 years average, 14 ha |
| Soil: | Clay |
| Farming: | Organic (certified) |
| Alcohol: | 14.5% |
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About The Producer
Domaine du Gros ‘Noré
Former boxer and avid hunter Alain Pascal is a gentle giant, whose physique matches both his spirit and his wine. He farms sixteen hectares of vineyards on the rolling hillsides around La Cadière d’Azur in Bandol, the appellation regarded as the grand cru of Provence. The vineyards are composed of both clay and limestone, imparting a pronounced structure of earthy, splintered rock. This microclimate near the Mediterranean brings warm weather and full sun, tempered by the persistent Mistral. Alain leaves his grapes to mature fully on the vine, lending great intensity to the fruit. Where appellation law demands that each blend includes at least 50 percent Mourvèdre, Alain uses 80 percent—a choice that gives more power and concentration to the final assemblage. Do not be fooled by the strength and boldness of the Gros ’Noré Bandol, though; underneath a big exterior is a wine of character, depth, complexity, soul, and finesse.
About The Region
Provence
There is perhaps no region more closely aligned with the history of Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant than Provence. While Kermit began his career as a Burgundy specialist, he soon fell in love with Provence and its wines, notably the legendary Bandols of Domaine Tempier, which he began importing in 1977. He later began living in the area part-time, returning frequently between tasting trips, and today he spends most of his time at his home just outside of Bandol.
Provence is thought to be France’s most ancient wine region, established when Greek settlers landed in the modern-day port city of Marseille in the 6th century BC. The conditions here are ideal for cultivation of the grapevine, with a hot, dry climate and a prevalence of poor, rocky soils, primarily limestone-based, suitable for vines and not much else. The ever-present southern sunshine as well as the mistral, a cold, drying wind from the northwest that helps keep the vines free of disease, are crucial elements of Provençal terroir. Wild herbs from the pervasive scrubland, called garrigue, and cooling saline breezes from the Mediterranean also contribute to the quality and character of wines in all three colors.
Provence is well known for its rosés, but red wines have always held importance here. The very best, such as those from Bandol, possess great depth and a capacity for long-term aging. The white wines, notably those of Cassis, offer weight balanced by a maritime freshness, making them ideal pairings for the local seafood. Mourvèdre reigns king for red grapes, supported mainly by Grenache and Cinsault, while Clairette, Marsanne, Rolle, and Ugni Blanc are the region’s principal white grapes.
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Where the newsletter started
Where the newsletter started
Every three or four months I would send my clients a cheaply made list of my inventory, but it began to dawn on me that business did not pick up afterwards. It occurred to me that my clientele might not know what Château Grillet is, either. One month in 1974 I had an especially esoteric collection of wines arriving, so I decided to put a short explanation about each wine into my price list, to try and let my clients know what to expect when they uncorked a bottle. The day after I mailed that brochure, people showed up at the shop, and that is how these little propaganda pieces for fine wine were born.—Kermit Lynch