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2022 Vermentino Isola dei Nuraghi “Fria”
Deperu Holler
Grown on a rocky escarpment in northern Sardinia, this Vermentino is the epitome of a great Mediterranean white. There is fleshy, golden, sun-ripened fruit, an evocative note of wild herbs and flowers drifting through a summer breeze, and the finish is not just saline, but full-on salty, as if a Mediterranean storm surge somehow ended up in the tank. The vines are farmed organically, regularly licked by cleansing winds off the coast, and the wine is fermented spontaneously and bottled unfiltered. You won’t find a more authentic or refreshing expression of island Vermentino than this.
—Anthony Lynch
| Wine Type: | white |
| Vintage: | 2022 |
| Bottle Size: | 750mL |
| Blend: | Vermentino |
| Appellation: | Vermentino di Gallura |
| Country: | Italy |
| Region: | Sardinia |
| Producer: | Deperu Holler |
| Winemaker: | Carlo Deperu |
| Vineyard: | 8 years, 13 years |
| Soil: | Limestone, marl, sandy decomposed granite |
| Aging: | Wine ages 7 months in stainless steel |
| Farming: | Organic (practicing) |
| Alcohol: | 13% |
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About The Producer
Deperu Holler
About The Region
Sardinia
Our first foray into Sardegna is very recent, and it only took one trip to fall in love with the island, its culture, and its wines. Similar to its northerly neighbor, Corsica, there is a strong regional identity here that goes far beyond its official status as one of Italy’s twenty regions. Its people are proud, strong-willed, and deeply attached to their traditions—a distinctive character often seen with island people and accentuated by its long history of invasions and outside rule.
This tumultuous past has resulted in diverse influences—Greek, Roman, Aragonese, Catalan, and Ligurian, just to name a few—that have shaped the island’s culture, language, cuisine, and wines over many centuries. While Vermentino and Cannonau (aka Grenache) reign, Sardegna also boasts a number of indigenous grapes that are capable of expressing something unique in its abundant variety of terroirs.
The Mediterranean plays a major role, providing cooling, salty breezes to coastal areas, while the rugged, mountainous interior is home to high-altitude sites where wines retain freshness in spite of the southerly latitude. The granitic highlands of Gallura and Barbagia come to mind as some of its most qualitative zones, but a range of soils, elevations, and varying distance to the sea mean that the island is capable of producing wines in all styles, from crisp whites to powerful reds and exquisite vini dolci.
The three growers we represent bring something new to the table, something fascinating that is not found elsewhere in Italy or even in nearby Corsica. Their wines evoke the rustic beauty of this fascinating island civilization, and of course, pair perfectly with the local cuisine, be it seafood-based or the hearty, earthy specialties of its interior.
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2024 Cannonau di Sardegna “Clos Camilla”
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
Let the brett nerds retire into protective bubbles, and whenever they thirst for wine it can be passed in to them through a sterile filter. Those of us on the outside can continue to enjoy complex, natural, living wines.
Inspiring Thirst, page 236