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2021 Quincy
Domaine TrotereauPierre Ragon opens his classic Quincy bottling.
Southwest of Sancerre, on the banks of a tributary of the Loire River, the Cher, lies the small Quincy appellation. France’s second recognized AOC in 1936 after only Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Quincy is home to sandy, silex-ridden topsoil with an undercurrent of pink limestone. Its terroir is truly unique, unlike any other Sauvignon Blanc appellation in the world, and gives a very particular wine. Sauvignon is able to ripen more fully here while retaining an intriguing aromatic profile, and the wines are capable of aging quite gracefully.
As recently as fifty years ago, the wines of Quincy were more recognized in France for quality than Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé, and commanded a higher price. Today, the appellation has largely faded from recognition, and cave cooperatives have bought up a lot of the land at pennies on the dollar. Most at Quincy try to make bracing, nervy Sauvignons that recall the typical style that can be produced anywhere, and precious few are willing or able to take the risks necessary to produce the type of wine that made Quincy famous and that only their terroir can produce.
At Domaine Trotereau, Pierre Ragon hasn’t rushed to replant with higher-yielding clones since he took over the reins in 1973 at this storied family domaine founded in 1804, and he is now blessed with vines over one hundred years old that are still producing exceptional fruit. With almost fifty consecutive vintages under his belt, Pierre proves he still has a few tricks up his wily sleeves with this spirited and classic 2021 release.
—Dixon Brooke
Wine Type: | white |
Vintage: | 2021 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Sauvignon Blanc |
Appellation: | Quincy |
Country: | France |
Region: | Loire |
Producer: | Domaine Trotereau |
Winemaker: | Pierre Ragon |
Vineyard: | 10.64 ha |
Soil: | Sandy, Silex, Pink Limestone |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 14% |
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This is Sauvignon Blanc unlike any others in the world: textured, lush, full of aromatic gooseberry and passionfruit—all supported by spiny minerality.
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About The Producer
Domaine Trotereau
About The Region
Loire
The defining feature of the Loire Valley, not surprisingly, is the Loire River. As the longest river in France, spanning more than 600 miles, this river connects seemingly disparate wine regions. Why else would Sancerre, with its Kimmeridgian limestone terroir be connected to Muscadet, an appellation that is 250 miles away?
Secondary in relevance to the historical, climatic, environmental, and cultural importance of the river are the wines and châteaux of the Jardin de la France. The kings and nobility of France built many hundreds of châteaux in the Loire but wine preceded the arrival of the noblesse and has since out-lived them as well.
Diversity abounds in the Loire. The aforementioned Kimmderidgian limestone of Sancerre is also found in Chablis. Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saumur boast the presence of tuffeau, a type of limestone unique to the Loire that has a yellowish tinge and a chalky texture. Savennières has schist, while Muscadet has volcanic, granite, and serpentinite based soils. In addition to geologic diversity, many, grape varieties are grown there too: Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne are most prevalent, but (to name a few) Pinot Gris, Grolleau, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’Aunis, and Folle Blanche are also planted. These myriad of viticultural influences leads to the high quality production of every type of wine: red, white, rosé, sparkling, and dessert.
Like the Rhône and Provence, some of Kermit’s first imports came from the Loire, most notably the wines of Charles Joguet and Château d’Epiré—two producers who are featured in Kermit’s book Adventures on the Wine Route and with whom we still work today.
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2022 Vouvray
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2020 Vin de France Rosé Grolleau/Cabernet Franc “Les Arceaux”
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Kermit once said...
Kermit once said...
I want you to realize once and for all: Even the winemaker does not know what aging is going to do to a new vintage; Robert Parker does not know; I do not know. We all make educated (hopefully) guesses about what the future will bring, but guesses they are. And one of the pleasures of a wine cellar is the opportunity it provides for you to witness the evolution of your various selections. Living wines have ups and downs just as people do, periods of glory and dog days, too. If wine did not remind me of real life, I would not care about it so much.
Inspiring Thirst, page 171