2022 ChevernyDomaine du Salvard
France | Loire
$22
Producers
Given the similarity in sound, it might seem cliché or contrived to describe reds from Fleurie as among the most floral of Beaujolais, but they truly are! This is one of Fleurie’s signatures, a main way its wines stand out from those of Beaujolais’s nine other crus. Cédric Chignard’s Les Moriers cuvée is not just irresistibly floral, though. Despite being light on its feet, it bears a soupçon of savory smoke as well as a spine of minerality and staying power more commonly associated with Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie’s neighbor.
That makes sense in this bottling, since the Moriers parcel—a historic lieu-dit that ranked as a first growth in an 1874 classification of the region’s vineyards—is directly next door to Moulin-à-Vent. A bottle of Beaujolais that bears mesmerizing finesse, depth, stamp of terroir, and also happens to stand tall as one of the region’s great values? Put me down for a case!
—Tom Wolf
Wine Type: | red |
Vintage: | 2021 |
Bottle Size: | 750mL |
Blend: | Gamay |
Appellation: | Fleurie |
Country: | France |
Region: | Beaujolais |
Producer: | Domaine Chignard |
Winemaker: | Michel & Cédric Chignard |
Vineyard: | 60 years, 8 ha |
Soil: | Granite |
Aging: | Aged in old foudres (large oak barrels) for 13 months |
Farming: | Lutte Raisonnée |
Alcohol: | 12.5% |
Domaine Chignard France | Beaujolais | Juliénas
Domaine Dupeuble France | Beaujolais | Beaujolais
Nicole Chanrion France | Beaujolais | Côte-de-Brouilly
Jean-Paul et Charly Thévenet France | Beaujolais | Régnié
Guy Breton France | Beaujolais | Beaujolais-Villages
After years of the region’s reputation being co-opted by mass-produced Beaujolais Nouveau and the prevalence of industrial farming, the fortunes of vignerons from the Beaujolais have been on the rise in the past couple of decades. Much of this change is due to Jules Chauvet, a prominent Beaujolais producer who Kermit worked with in the 1980s and arguably the father of the natural wine movement, who advocated not using herbicides or pesticides in vineyards, not chaptalizing, fermenting with ambient yeasts, and vinifying without SO2. Chief among Chauvet’s followers was Marcel Lapierre and his three friends, Jean Foillard, Guy Breton, and Jean-Paul Thévenet—a group of Morgon producers who Kermit dubbed “the Gang of Four.” The espousal of Chauvet’s methods led to a dramatic change in quality of wines from Beaujolais and with that an increased interest and appreciation for the AOC crus, Villages, and regular Beaujolais bottlings.
The crus of Beaujolais are interpreted through the Gamay grape and each illuminate the variety of great terroirs available in the region. Distinguishing itself from the clay and limestone of Burgundy, Beaujolais soils are predominantly decomposed granite, with pockets of blue volcanic rock. The primary vinification method is carbonic maceration, where grapes are not crushed, but instead whole clusters are placed in a tank, thus allowing fermentation to take place inside each grape berry.
Much like the easy-going and friendly nature of many Beaujolais vignerons, the wines too have a lively and easy-drinking spirit. They are versatile at table but make particularly good matches with the local pork sausages and charcuterie. Though often considered a wine that must be drunk young, many of the top crus offer great aging potential.
Domaine Dupeuble France | Beaujolais | Beaujolais
Jean-Paul et Charly Thévenet France | Beaujolais | Régnié
Alex Foillard France | Beaujolais | Côte de Brouilly
Nicole Chanrion France | Beaujolais | Côte-de-Brouilly
Alex Foillard France | Beaujolais | Beaujolais-Villages
Nicole Chanrion France | Beaujolais | Côte-de-Brouilly
Quentin Harel France | Beaujolais | Morgon
Château Thivin France | Beaujolais | Côte de Brouilly
Domaine Dupeuble France | Beaujolais | Beaujolais
Nicole Chanrion France | Beaujolais
Jean-Paul et Charly Thévenet France | Beaujolais | Morgon
Château Thivin France | Beaujolais | Côte de Brouilly
For the wines that I buy I insist that the winemaker leave them whole, intact. I go into the cellars now and select specific barrels or cuvées, and I request that they be bottled without stripping them with filters or other devices. This means that many of our wines will arrive with a smudge of sediment and will throw a more important deposit as time goes by, It also means the wine will taste better.
Drinking distilled spirits, beer, coolers, wine and other alcoholic beverages may increase cancer risk, and, during pregnancy, can cause birth defects. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/alcohol
Many food and beverage cans have linings containing bisphenol A (BPA), a chemical known to cause harm to the female reproductive system. Jar lids and bottle caps may also contain BPA. You can be exposed to BPA when you consume foods or beverages packaged in these containers. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov/bpa